The video walks viewers through constructing a portable near‑infrared sauna panel following Dr. Wilson’s specifications. It begins with cutting a 24" × 24" quarter‑inch plywood board in half to create two 12" × 24" panels. Rails (1" high, 3/4" thick, 24" long) are installed to form a channel for wiring. A light‑switch box opening is cut with a jigsaw, followed by holes for two light sockets positioned 2" from the top and bottom edges and spaced 9.5‑10" apart. The rails are nailed to the top board, and the switch box is mounted with two machine screws, fender washers, and nuts. Pre‑wired light sockets are attached. Electrical wiring is created from a standard 125 V extension cord: the cord is trimmed, stripped, and the ribbed (hot) and smooth (neutral) conductors are identified. The ribbed wires connect to the black wires on the switch box, the smooth wires to the switch terminals, and all four wires are tied together with wire nuts. A tension clip secures the cord to prevent pulling. A 3‑foot steel chain with an eyelet hook provides an adjustable hanging mechanism, attached to the bottom panel with wood screws. Quarter‑inch hardware cloth mesh is sandwiched between the two plywood panels, clamped, and hammered to smooth creases. The mesh‑covered panel is screwed to the base, pre‑drilled holes align the sides, and wood screws secure the assembly. Finally, infrared bulbs are installed, completing the portable sauna panel ready for use.
Chapters
The following is a video on how to make your own infrared sauna. These are according to the instructions on Dr. Wilson's website. For the list of the specifications, please see that document. So in following the instructions, what we've done is we've taken a piece of 24 by 24 inch plywood. It's a quarter inch thick. If you don't have a way of ripping this in half to make 2 pieces that are 12 by 24, any hardware center can cut these in half for you. So once they've been cut in half, the next pieces you're going to need are these rails. Rails are going to create the space where all of the electrical wiring goes underneath. You want them to be at least 1 inch high, 3/4 inch thick is fine, 24 inches long. So it's going to run the whole length And we're going to create a box. First thing we're doing is to the far right, we're going to place our cutout for the light switch box. Just simply trace the, the box and then cut out your rectangle space in order to place the box and mount it. In cutting out these box space, the easiest thing to do is just drill 2 holes like that and then use a jigsaw to cut it out. Once the hole for your light switch box is cut out, next thing we want to do is cut out the holes for our light sockets. And these should be, according to the specs, 2 inches from either edge, the top and the bottom. And we're looking at— 2 inches from the top and the bottom. A drill press here. If you don't have a drill press, again, a jigsaw and a drill will have to get you going on this one. This is the easiest way in order to put those holes in. You want those bottom 2 holes to be roughly 9.5 to 10 inches apart from each other. So once those are cut, we can attach the rails to the top board. Here we used An air gun, but a regular hammer and nails would be just fine. Now we're going to mount the light switch box itself. So here's an example of what we want it to look like. In mounting it, we really only need these 2 screws. This isn't going to require a whole lot of movement, so the 2 screws are just fine. You're going to drill one hole and the other hole on the other side with a drill. And then just use these machine screws using the fender washers and the nuts to secure it. It works. It's easiest to just put the screw through the hole and then apply all the pieces to the back, the washers and then the nut. Hold on to the nut And then screw the screw into place rather than trying to wrench the nut on. Now we're ready for our light sockets. These are the kind that unscrew, and you have one part that goes in the back, and the top part screws onto place. These were pre-wired. We found them to be really convenient. The easiest thing to do to make our cord is to use an extension cord. This is just a household cord. It holds 125 volts. And what we've done is we've cut off the end, as you can see that here, and then we've cut off about a 12-inch section and then exposed the wires on, on of those sections by stripping back about a 3/4 of an inch area. So here's where he cut off the end of the extension. The end of the extension cord is gone. Clip the wires and pull them apart. And what we're looking for here is all cords have a ribbed side and a smooth side, and you want to take note of which one is ribbed and which one is smooth. The ribbed one is going to connect to the black wires on the back of the box, and you're going to see that in a minute. Now, once you've installed that blue switch box, there's a couple of holes that could be punched out. You need one on the front like what he just did, and then one on the back. So you're going to run the wires— the longest wire with the outlet cord is going to go into that top hole. You've identified the ribbed, right? And then you identify the smooth wires. The smooth wires We're going to now connect directly to the switch. One side goes to the smooth wire on the left and one on the right. You don't need to worry about the ground screw at all. So once the smooth wires are connected, just use a wire nut and connect the 2 ribbed wires, and you're done with the light switch. So now from the light switch, you'll have that smaller piece, the 12-inch piece, And it's going to go from the switch to your black wires is the ribbed, and the white wires is going to be the smooth. The simplest thing to do is to just connect all 4 wires, and then again, we're using the wire nut and connecting them all together. The plain wire goes to the white. You're gonna need a total of 3 wire nuts for this project. And that's the back of it. Then you flip it over and you just screw in your switch to the box. And just a reminder, we connected the 2 ribbed wires together, that's the hot wire And then you just place the plate back on top and screw it in. Here we're using a tension clip. It's just hammered, tapped in really, and this keeps tension on that wire going right into the box so that you're not pulling on it whenever you go to plug it into the wall. Before we put on this chain, we tacked on or nailed on the bottom. So the other 12 by 24 piece of plywood was tacked on, and now we're taking that piece of 3-foot steel chain and we're screwing that in using a wood screw to one side. The other side, we're going to screw in an eyelet hook, and that makes the chain adjustable. So there's the eyelet hook being screwed in. And the next step is to use the hardware cloth. This is quarter-inch holes. We found this very easy to work with. We just clamped 2 pieces of wood together with the mesh in between, and Using glove and a hammer, we were able to smooth this out and make our creases very easily this way. So once you do that on all 4 sides, you're ready to screw this into your sauna base. So we've pre-drilled 4 holes along both sides, as you can see here, and then again we're just using some wood screws to affix it in place. Okay, so now we're going to And you do that all the way around. The last step is just installing the bulbs, and once those are done, you're ready to hang and enjoy your sauna.
