DAY 1 Mold-Safe Building: Site Selection & Climate

Cheryl Cicco introduces a five-day masterclass on building mold-resistant homes, starting with site selection and climate. Grading and drainage plans must be documented and numeric. Lumber should stay below 15% moisture content during construction, since mold grows around 20%.
Questions this video answers
February 22, 2022.
15% moisture content.
Around 20% moisture content.
The grading plan is the final grading plan (to be checked at completion).
Chapters
Hello everyone. I'm coming on live yet again and I'm Cheryl Cicco with avoidingmold.com on my computer screen there is a really weird delay. So I'm going to try not to be distracted by that. But welcome whoever is coming on to watch this. Whether you're watching the recorded version or the live event, we are offering this week a free masterclass. That is my introductory to building a safe home. And today I'm going to go over each day this week we're going to go over one of the modules that I'm talking about. And in this course it's a very in depth course. So that's a master course. This is a class that you're getting. So once you've registered, you should be getting that via email. And every day we'll go over a different section. So today, just to give you the overview of where we're going today is the building site. So we're going to talk about site and climate a little bit. So in the master class that you're getting for free, it's an introductory course. I go through each one of these also and provide an example. But know that the master course is way more in depth in each of those areas. So today we're going to talk about the building site and climate. Tomorrow will be building design. On Wednesday will be foundations, Thursday will be the roof, and Friday will be walls and openings. And maybe I'll touch a little bit on our bonus section which is on contracts, which is also very, very important to building a safe home. And so why are we talking about this? Because even when we build new homes, they're failing. So I'm seeing as many new homes with mold issues as I am existing. Homes that have been around for a long time and were built incorrectly maybe long ago know that there isn't a certain age of home that's going to be ideal. Although I would say that there are, there is kind of some older homes that might have been built really well that might be better than homes we're building today. And so I wouldn't preclude some of the older homes, although I would probably stick. I don't usually like to look earlier than the 50s. The reasons for that has to do with more heating and air conditioning issues and, and whatnot. But that doesn't mean that you can't have a good solid home that can be safe for at any age, that the building could be any age. So there's good and bad buildings built at every time period, including now with new construction. So Our new construction, we're doing a lot of things related to sustainability, which is a good thing. We do want to be energy efficient. We don't want to live in a drafty home. However, some of the things that we're doing are very technical and, and we haven't changed how we build. So we're tightening up our building and they're not actually being built any differently. And so what was leaking before is still leaking, only we've now trapped that water really well. So. So in terms of site and climate, see we have some people coming on. Thanks for joining me. It's always weird to do this because I. It's weird. It's just weird. You can imagine it's weird. So if you haven't already signed up for my Intro to the 90 minute intro to Mold Safe Building class that is available for five days. You can watch it at any time. You can start watching it and stop and then continue on, whatever you need to do. But it is available for free. This is my gift for the holidays. Merry Christmas. I do celebrate Christmas, so I'm trying to spread my joy amidst this kind of nasty topic of water damage and mold. But we can build better and the more that we can all create awareness and tell other people and notice things about our buildings and see things and share that, hey, you know, I think that's not. That might be a problem on your building that we can, we can do better. And the air we breathe is very, very related to our health. Anytime we're dealing with toxins in the environment, in the food, in the water, those basic things, the air we breathe, the food and the water, they're like the most basic elements for human beings to survive that. They're. If those things have any amount of toxin in them, then our body is burdened by that and then something else might come along and be. We will be more susceptible. So we're going to talk just briefly right now about building a site or finding a site, choosing a site and a climate. Know that there is no perfect climate, just like there is no perfect time period for a home. So lots of people will say, oh, I want to go move to Arizona, New Mexico, Florida. Those are actually very different because Florida is very humid. There's nothing special about New Mexico and Arizona when it comes to mold. And if you check out my YouTube channel, Avoiding Cheryl Cico Architecture, my Instagram channel, you'll see lots of things going on that I've seen in, in those places. Especially recently in Arizona and New Mexico. I've been looking for Homes in states that were South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, also considered very dry states. We go in with a realtor and I end up somewhere along the line telling them what I do. And then they say, oh, no, we don't have any mold here in South Dakota, Wyoming, Arizona, Montana, Utah, because we're a desert state. Or we had. We're very dry. And then inevitably we had come across homes that we looked at. That one I can think of right now that we didn't even go in because we opened the door and it was so musty and that we walked away. It's like, I'm not even going in that house. It's too musty. There's other ones where crawl spaces are prevalent. And yeah, it might be dry if it's outside drying to the atmosphere, but when it's trying to dry underneath your building, it may not be succeeding. And so when it comes to things like we're talking about the building site here right now, and that is one of the most critical parts of building a safe home, Building a mold safe home that's getting overlooked or building even a quality home, site planning gets overlooked. How many people have built a new home and there is no site plan to show how the building is actually fitting on the site. And then even more so, there's no site plan that describes the drainage, that describes the slope of the land, that describes with numbers. So somebody could quantifiably figure this out and see if it's correct or if it was done the way it was designed, that shows ground slope. So there are codes around this in terms of sloping away from a building. For instance, to keep the foundation dry. We want to keep the ground next to our building from not puddling water. Our foundations of any type, and we're going to talk about foundations on Wednesday a little bit more, are a giant wick of water, their giant sponge. So in the building site section, we talk. We kind of had a little introductory. We talk about climate. And there are things to consider in different climates. So we have climate such as in the Pacific Northwest where they get a lot of rain, it's a little bit more mild. We have climates like Minnesota, North Dakota, Michigan, some of the Midwest states where we get really cold temperatures. So that's something to consider. That's different than the Pacific Northwest. Then we have the Arizona, New Mexico's, and who are seemingly very dry, except when they're not dry because of the monsoon season. So there's this fallacy that these certain climates are really dry and that they don't have to build to be moisture proof or moisture safe because they don't get that much water, except when they do get water and they get a ton. And the burden then is so huge on the building that usually over time that the building can't overcome that. I do see that in sometimes northern climates where it's very cold, there's some better building techniques being done for insulation, for comfort that might not be done in a really mild climate. And some of those things might be actually a good thing for the building overall. So the climate is very important. Some of you may be from Canada, so that's going to be definitely a more colder climate. We'll do something. We'll do things differently in the northern United States in Canada than we'll do in Florida than we would do in. In Texas. For instance, the way our buildings dry the bay, the way we heat and cool them, the burdens on the building will be different in all these places. Then you have the east coast, which can be humid in this, hot in the summer and cold in the winter. We have the Southeast, where humidity is a definitely a big concern. And so there's not a one size fits all solution for any home. So understanding how the climate affects our buildings is one of the things that's really important to being one, a really savvy client to build a home, but also in understanding what kind of burdens we might want to be avoiding and what things we might want to be paying for that you can't see but might be worth paying for. And sometimes I'm seeing that the builders aren't doing certain things with the building enclosure because the clients don't want it. But I'm convinced that if we can create clients who are educated and to want these things that do want lumber that's not growing mold, for instance, that we can get it if we're asking for it. But right now there's a disconnect between the people out in the world that are suffering and have been exposed to water damage and mold effects on their health. And taking that back to the builders. And I do recommend architects be involved in. Even single family residential architects have a lot of training. We have a lot of continuing education that we do. And that's really critical because the codes change all the time. And when the codes kind of mess up and we'll talk about a little bit more about codes in the building design section, but when the codes realize it's something that they had promoted, really a good idea, then they'll go and they'll change the Codes, the codes change all the time. Live and learn kind of an attitude. But nobody's putting up a big flag to say these are all the things we used to recommend that we don't recommend anymore. And even really good builders or contractors that may have been following the code, they studied up really well 20 years ago, 25 years ago, 30 years ago. If they're not on top of all this all the time, then they might find that that thing that was, that they were doing, that was the right thing to do 20, 25 years ago, is now not even allowed. But because of the amount of residential projects that get done and the costs involved, building code officials are not usually checking residential projects. So this is another area where as a, as a homeowner, as a client, as someone who's going to be buying a home, whether it's, are ready built or new construction, we want to pay attention to getting to knowing what is right and making sure we're getting it. So in terms of the building site, which, what I'm talking about, that had, that has six modules in that section, you're going to get one in the master course, at least the master class that you're watching for free. So that has an intro. Climate. We talk about climate, we talk about site selection. I always want to be high ground. Don't be the lowest house in the neighborhood. We talk a little bit about permits and planning. That's really critical. I've had clients who inadvertently didn't get permits because they thought the builder was getting them. The builder didn't get it because it's actually the homeowner's responsibility. And then there was a problem. So you don't want that to be you. There are going to be requirements in any jurisdiction that we have to pay attention to. And then surveys, there's different kinds of surveys. So we do want to define what we're asking our builders to do. We're going to define what we want to pay for in writing. And that is going to be in a drawing. When it comes down to building a building and especially in site design. So it's really going to be, it's not going to be something where someone's standing on, on the site saying, I need more slope over there and I need lower over there or higher over there. No, we want this all to be numbers. When people come out to move dirt, the people that do that kind of work are coming out with big equipment and usually some sort of stakes and maybe laser levels that they're gonna, they just need numbers. The height of this ground here is this. And then the height of this ground here is this number. And we want to make it as easy as possible for them, which will be the cheapest thing for us, the least expensive cost for us, if we're very clear in what we want and, and so that they can come out and get the job done and then so we can check it and see that, yes, in fact, the drainage that I paid my architect or my engineer to design, that was going to work really well, we got it. We can pay that contractor because we got what we asked for. But if it's not in writing, then there's no way to check. And in terms of cost, the contractors, they don't know what you want unless if it's in writing, then they know I can get that done in a day. I know exactly what I'm going to do. There's not going to be questions. I don't have to go ask the homeowner or the builder or something. What should I do here? No, it's all in writing, it's all in a drawing. So site plans are very, very important so that we can do the proper site grading. And that's the final module sub chapter, I should say, of the building site in the Build a Safe Home masterclass. So we're going to be talking about building design tomorrow. Other things I have to mention, if you haven't signed up, the link is in the comments and my assistant Crystal is actually putting up comments down there. So if you're wondering how I'm typing while I'm talking, I'm not. I can't do anything that I'm doing without Crystal. She's. She does a great job at setting all this stuff up. And so to learn even more about the safe building home process, you will want to join me for my Build a Safe Home in Depth master class. So if you decide to join that, and I hope that those of you that get this little teaser test decide to do that because it is a great course. We've had such excellent feedback. Whether you are a professional and I have had architects like myself in that group, I can tell you that I am an architect and I am sharing all the light bulb moments that I have had along the way that I maybe touched on in school but maybe didn't get in depth on or that I didn't realize some nuances about whatever that piece is. So, so we do hope that you will find us there. You can find it@ avoidingmold.com we are having our a full hour So I do online support Q and A sessions just for those people in that course. And we do it every four to six weeks. No extra charge, it's included. And the next one is on December 29th. So you can bring your photos, you can send your questions. Usually people send their questions in advance. If they can't be on the live call, then I will be still answering their questions and I'll they'll see their question answered in the recording which again can be watched at any time. So we're doing everything possible to make this as easy to access and as easy for you guys to do as possible. So are there any other questions while I'm on? Let's see if I don't know if you guys have any questions you can ask away. I know Crystal's in answering some down there, but we just wanted to come on briefly and let you know that we're doing this. I am really going to be curious how this is all how you guys like the class. I have done it at some conferences and it was very well received. So I am excited for you to see it. And in the spirit of giving a spirit of gratitude, I am really thankful for all my followers and, and those of you that are supporting me and sharing this information. It does take kind of a team and a village to change the way things are being done. But I'm really excited that we are making a difference and that there are people paying attention and little by little I think we can actually move the dial and we can move towards better buildings and, and then ultimately better health. So if there's anything else that those of you on here, you can actually type a question if you have any and know what else I can tell you. But I have been traveling just a little bit of rambling here. I have been traveling so those you've been following me traveling. We went to the north in the early fall and then we went down south into Florida. I did have mentioned in some other ones that I did get exposed in Florida to something nasty that causes me to cough. Hopefully that won't happen during this call but it did also kind of preclude me from being on too many videos. I couldn't even get a moisture minute done without coughing. So no, that goes back to the whole climate thing is that there are, there's kind of fungus, there's fungus related stuff in every location. So I have a question from Jeff but I'm not sure how I can look at it because it's on. I'm using my phone. Crystal, if you can, if you can email me the question crystal, then I'll be able to see it better because I'm using my phone and, and I don't see the question here. So. Yeah, so in Arizona they have the, they have a fungus in the dirt that makes people very sick. We've actually, my husband was exposed to that and. Oh, a question. Best time to build. In Minnesota, the winter actually is a really good time if you get the foundation in before the ground freezes. So know that mold doesn't really grow when it's free freezing outside. So the Minnesota's, North Dakotas, South Dakotas, northern Wisconsin's of the world. It's if you can, you just got to get your foundation in. But don't, don't skimp on your site planning because you got to get that foundation in. Because defining the height of the foundation in relation to the grade and making sure the grade slopes are working so there's good drainage away is so important. This is, is a gradient. Okay, so Jeff, let me see. All right, so here's a question. So, Jeff, is the grading plan for the final grade only or throughout the build? So the grading plan is usually you hire someone that's going to do, that's going to also do the check at the end to make sure it was done properly. The grading plan is the final grading plan. It is a good idea as clients to know, be asking our contractor what they're doing along the way. But there is a lot of time during the project build that you're driving around equipment and things are not perfect. In fact, one of the biggest problems in our home building, and actually this is true in commercial buildings as well, is that when we put in the foundation, we move the dirt away. They put in a foundation, whether it's a very shallow foundation in a southern climate or a deeper foundation in a Minnesota or northern climate, which could go down several feet. We move dirt out of the way, then we put dirt back. And therein lies the big problem because we put that dirt back and it's a lot fluffier and there's a lot more air in it than what nature would have had when it, when it's disturbed now. So we've disturbed the soil along the foundation of any kind and then we put the dirt back and now it's, it's been disturbed and it's susceptible and likely to settle. And that's one of the biggest issues that we have in our buildings, is that even if we compact that dirt and a good builder will do that, it's going to continue to settle. No builder can compact as much as nature is going to do, so from rain and snow and just the settling and pushing the air out of it. In the first, definitely the first five years. But even up to 15 years, there's a lot of settlement going on around our building, on the building site, any dirt that was moved. And so yes, the grading plan is the final plan, but along the way there's a lot to pay attention to. And I would be talking to your contractor and, and saying, listen, if we can get it at least somewhat sloped away right from the beginning, that'd be great. Jeff is asking thoughts on backfilling with stone or recycled concrete to help with the settling. No, I actually so you do not want the ground to drain at your foundation. So you can put gravel in the backfill, but the top surface needs to be impervious. So if it's clay or something that doesn't drain well, you need it to be sloped and you want water to roll off of it. We do not want to have like a big funnel of gray of really easily draining rock right next to our foundation because that's where the water will go. So best time in North Carolina is a GIS map. The best way to look at the slope of the land. Definitely start with whatever maps you can find out online that have topography. There's some FEMA maps to get an idea because even flat farmland has a slope, I guarantee you it has a slope. North Carolina, you know, the winter, if it's below freezing, might be still fine. If we can avoid or be in a season where there's good drying potential, I think that's usually good. But there's, you know, we most climates there's rain at any time. But I would avoid Arizona in the monsoon season. If you can try to do the seasons that are drier. What do you typically suggest if framing a home has mold identified from construction? This is a big problem. But one of the things we talk about in the course is how to get mold that is not going to be moldy right from the get go. So this has to do with moisture content. I do have a video on our webinar separately that's a moisture moisture content moisture meters video. Every contractor should have a moisture meter and they should be checking the lumber. When we order lumber, it comes typically at 19% moisture content. However, you can order lumber to be 15, 15% moisture content. And I would do that. So when I was in Tucson recently, that was for an American Lumber Standards Committee meeting I am on the United States American Lumber Standards Committee and they do the grading rules for lumber and for pallets. And I am the architect representative on that committee. So I go to their meetings and usually in a nice place, which is offsets the burden of the meeting. And I did talk to some suppliers, lumber suppliers, and we talked about moisture content and they were telling me that nobody asks for moisture content 15 mc15 wood. And so I said, well, I think I do have a population that would want that. So that would be one of the things that we do talk about in the course. But I would suggest for you as a tidbit here, from staying on this call this long is specify moisture content 15 wood, then make sure you're getting it. Mold is, mold will grow on wood about 20% moisture content. There's a 3% deviation in most moisture meters that you could be pro, you know, plus or minus 3%. So if you're getting moisture content 19 wood, you're right next to moisture content 20. And it's possible that it's coming moisture 20. I definitely would return anything that comes with high moisture content or that's dirty, the same way that you would return a package that comes damaged. So if you get a broken up box shipped to your door, usually, you know, open it up, it's damaged, you're sending it back. Do the same thing with the lumber and be clear with your contractor. This is what you're going to be expecting. But I definitely would, would Specify moisture content 15. So you're getting a little bit drier wood right from the get go. And you need to, the contractor needs to know if something is, he's going to be to blame. So if he's getting moldy lumber, then it's on him to send it back. Then once if it's coming clean, then it's his job to keep it dry and to keep it clean off the ground is always critical. Takes a few extra minutes to do that on a job site. Cleaning up job sites, keeping the wood off the ground, pay extra for that. It shouldn't be a lot of money, but if clients want it, I'm hoping that there's builders out there that will do it. And I know on my job sites that they do. So if you're getting a contractor who says no way, no how, we're not doing it, you know, maybe you choose a different one. But there are codes around this. So there are places in the code where they're referencing the manufacturer's instructions. So basically the people who make panel products, the Plywood, the osb, the people who are producing, like the American Lumber Standards Committee, they're rating lumber and they're putting a grade stamp on it. There's different grade stamps of lumber. So these are all things that come together. But today I'm focused on we'll talk about more on lumber and in the roofs, in the wall section. But today I'm focused on the site and that is a piece that we can never fix again easily. So if we do not get our site sloped away, meaning the having planned where gutters or downspouts are going to go, how the roof drainage is going to get away from our buildings, and there are something called the section drawing that is going to show that, yes, there may be some details that might have some gravel down by a footing drain. A footing drain and a French drain are not the same thing. So you can look that up, but that we don't want to collect water and have a really impervious zone around our buildings. The idea is never, never, never to collect water against the foundation. We want to keep the foundation as dry as possible. So I hope this is all helpful. I'm going to be done for today. I will be on again tomorrow. It's a slightly different time. So you can check on the next video on the next live and feel free to post questions in the comments and maybe if we can answer them tomorrow, we will try to do that as well. So thanks a lot for watching. Again, thanks for supporting me. To everyone in Kentucky suffering, if you're able to be on this, my heart goes out to you. I am looking at doing a webinar of some sort, something like that related to wind events. We have wind events in every climate, some places more than others. But the potential for wind events and damage in our buildings is very great and we can do better on those as well. So there's a some point where the building isn't going to be able to withstand certain amounts of wind. There's nothing we can do, but we can make them better. And there definitely are solutions to keep more of our building contained, keep rain out of it, keep them from just being breached where they just get blown to pieces. So again, our prayers, my heart goes out to those of you that are suffering and have had such tremendous losses in Kentucky. And so we will be touching on that topic as well. So again, thank you for watching and I'll see you on the next video. Bye. Check out the class. Bye.










