How to Install Riser Mounted Quiver Inserts

Shane from Great Plains Bow Company walks through installing riser-mounted quiver inserts. Measure and mark your spacing (12" centers on a Bighorn), drill with a 5/16" bit using a taped depth stop, then tap the compression-fit inserts in with a hardwood block.
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Hey guys. Shane, Great Plains Bow Company. I'm the bowyer here and today I wanted to show you all how you can put quiver inserts into your riser. So a lot of people, when you think about drilling into a riser, it can be kind of scary, which you do have to be careful. But today I'm going to show you how to do it. It's fairly simple, honestly. So when you're going to put a quiver on your bow, if it doesn't matter the spacing on how far apart the you put your bushings or your inserts, then you want to space them as far apart as possible. If it does matter, then you just, you have to orient it according to your riser profile. This is a bighorn riser and the customer asked me to put quiver inserts into it. So I know that the bighorns are 12 inches apart. So that's what I'm going to do for this one. Now it's important to have a fairly nice flat, flat area, probably the largest that you can when you're putting quiver inserts in. Because a lot of the bases on quivers, you know, some of them are that big, some are that big. But if you have a flat space and you have more surface area, it helps to stabilize that quiver. So for instance, on a bow like this, if I were to put a quiver, this is an old Great Plains take down longbow. If I was going to put a quiver in here, I'd put it right here and right here. However, that bolt and insert goes down here somewhere. So I'd have to be careful that I didn't run into that. So I'd probably move it just down past that, put it in here and maybe just down past that and put it in here. But keeping the largest, flattest area for the base of my quiver. So on this bighorn we're going to measure down, get it, you know, somewhere in about the center of this is 3/4 of an inch. This is approximately an inch and a half. So we're going to measure down three quarters and then to kind of center it in the riser, I'm going to measure over 9, 16. And I kind of figured this out beforehand, but it's really simple to do. So then I'm going to come over here and then go approximately. I'm going to keep the measurements the same for symmetry and I'm going to go 3, 4. Now you could say, well just, you know, I'll just get it the same distance from here as I did from here. You could do that. And it might be close. But if we know that they have to be on 12 inches center, we're gonna get our one which I know is pretty, it's pretty close on that side. Then I'm gonna measure over and I'm gonna get it right on 12 inch. Now an easy way I can do that is just use the 1 inch mark. So I'll add an inch and I'll and if I can do this with only two hands on my 13 mark and then I'm going to go one inch here. Not hard to do it. Okay, let's double check ourselves. And it's dead on 12 inches. So if I can put it to the end of the tape measure, it's dead on 12 inches. So then I'll move this one up to three quarter and that's my crosshairs right there. So I got my 12 inch centers there down three quarter, which is approximately centering between this and this. And I'm ready to drill. So for this bow, I'm going to use quarter 20s. Now if you're going to tap, if you're going to tap these out, you need to tap and die set if you're going to thread them. A lot of times I do thread them. I don't have any of those in stock right now. It doesn't really matter. These are just as strong. You can buy these from Three Rivers Archery. These are quarter 20 quiver inserts. And they just have sort of like, I think they're called dogs or you know, anti reverse little rivet like things that hold that in there. These are really, really simple. If you do these, there's no threading. It's just drilling your hole and then pounding it in. So this would be the most simple for you. So, so to do this, we're going to measure this. But I'll show you on the package. These come in. If you get them from Three Rivers, I'm going to show you this. These are quickie quiver inserts. And this is pretty cool. These are really simple to put in. Also these are compression fit, just like the one I have here. These are from Three Rivers. But these here, it tells you everything to do. It tells you the size of drill bit to use and everything. But we don't have that information for these quarter 20s. So we'll just measure it. So we'll take our calipers. You don't necessarily have to use a calipers. I just have one here. And let's get a measurement of the. Without the size of the little reverse Dogs or whatever. I've got 0.3185 or somewhere in there. So that's about a 516 inch bit, I believe. So I know from my decimals 3125 is a 5 16. So 516 can work nearly perfect. Another way of doing it is just to put your bit right there. And you can see it's just. Just about the same size as the shaft diameter of this little insert. Of course, these stick out, which gives you the resistance so that they don't pop out. So we're going to use 5:16. Now, normally I would do this with my end mill to get it real straight, but because most people aren't going to have end mills, I'm going to show you how you can do it with just a regular drill. It might seem pretty scary, but it's actually quite, quite simple. So clamp this down something with rubber jaws on it so it doesn't move. And then a real easy way of doing this. I normally don't do this because I kind of know my tools. But if you just take the. The depth of this, now you're going to want to go to where not the point, but where it cuts the full width, the full radius, the full diameter of the hole. So right there. Now I'm gonna make a little mark here. Go just a hair deeper because once that's in there, you can't pull it out. So you want to make sure that it's. It's just a little deep enough, but you don't want to go too deep. Now, with that done, an easy way to just make sure you're accurate is put a little bit of tape on there. You can leave that mark if you're confident enough in your skills. But if you really want to be sure, you just put some tape right there to mark the depth of your bit. And there you've got your temporary depth gauge that you can't screw up. So now a really good thing to do is get you a little punch and punch a center hole there so your bit don't wonder. So here's I've got a center punch you can use about anything if you just grind the tip off something. If you don't have one of these, an old screwdriver would make one, put that right in the center of your crosshairs and give it a tap. Okay. That's going to keep our bit from wondering. Then we're going to do the same thing here. Perfect. Okay. Once we have our center spot mark so our bit don't wonder we're going to start this. Now. What I'm going to do is take your time with this step because basically if you really, if you're not sure about your ability to hold this drill straight, you can even clamp a little square on or something or eye it in, you know, and square it up. I can just eye it in and watch it. But if you're not sure if you can do it, you can put a temporary square there. This is all. If you don't have an end mill or a drill press, if you had a drill press, this is, this is quick work. So we're going to do it without either. Alright, so I'm going to go down, I'm going to start slow, I'm going to go a little ways in, then I'm going to turn this way and make sure I'm straight here, nice and straight. And I'm going to go back this way, then back this way. Just keep doing that back and forth. You'd be amazed at how straight you can, can drill doing this method. Drill straight and this way. Yes, sir. All right, let's blow this bit out and make sure we're not going to. Okay, you see that we're still on our mark there with our tape. So let's double check it a little bit deeper. Okay, that's full depth. Blow this off so you can see. Alright. So you can see my mark right there. And if I look, if I. You can see that's perfectly at the depth we want and that, that hole is straight, it's square and it's perfect. Take a little bit of 220 or whatever you're finishing this out with and you clean off the edges, clean off your pin marks. If you're. If the bit did a little tiny bit of damage which if you're careful, it won't cut. And that's a perfectly square clean quiver insert hole. So now I can drop this in here and you can see it fits perfectly. Now I'm going to take this block. Do not want a hammer on this insert. So get you a block of a hardwood pine is not going to work. Or a softwood you're going to have to use. If you have a block of hardwood around or anything that's semi hard, you don't want. I don't think you'd want to use steel. This is brass. You probably damage that. Once you have your block that you're going to use for your hammer, start gently tapping and you watch it as it's going in. You want it to go in straight. So I'm just gently tapping it in. I'm almost there. Okay, that's nearly perfect. Now I'm going to set that flush. So for that I'm going to use. Let's see. It's kind of weird, but this worked pretty good. Do this. Okay, that's flush with the top and made a few scuff marks here. If you do scuff it up, I'm just cleaning off around it. But then you can take some steel wool. It's brass, so it polishes really easily. And you can just polish that up real pretty. Now, obviously this riser is getting refinished, so probably most people that put them in are going to have risers that are already finished. So for that what I would do is I would just take some tape and I would just tape a couple layers, you know, right around the hole just like this to protect your finish, you know, do several layers and build that tape up all the way around so that you don't damage your finish of your bow. And then when you hit it in there, just sink it on. Now this is once again for this type. If you drill and tap it for threads and you don't use the hammer method, then in some respects that's easier. In some respects that's harder. This is just putting quiver inserts of the drill in. Drill in, I guess tap it in. I'm not sure exactly what the professional term. Yeah, these are just. These are the non threaded ones. Really easy to do anyway, that's how you do quiver inserts. I'm just gonna do the other one. Don't need to show it to you because we just went over this one. So pretty simple. Got any questions? Reach out to us. Thanks for watching.
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