Socket and Tenon Fitting | 110# Two Piece Traditional Bow

Procedure we do for all of our sleeve bows goes in the vise pretty tight. See how good a job I did on my tolerances? That's about how you want it. You want it about that tight. So if you don't, I'm just gonna slam it back and then go again. Yeah, that's perfect. So you want even reveal all the way around there. This particular one has a lot of carbon in it. So you can see my high points are right here. So I'll just ease those a little bit with some 120. And I don't see any high points there. So. So that's still plenty high. So we'll ease them some more. You take too much off. Then you have a loose fitting sleeve which wants to come apart when you're stringing. All right, just a little bit more right on that area. That's getting real nice. Maybe just a tad bit. Oh, yeah, that's lovely. Okay, now we will wax the socket part of it like a slice of butter. When I started doing this, I started waxing the tenon and found out pretty quick that you don't wax the tenon side because it all gets smushed to the end of the tenon. So when you wax the sleeve, the socket side, much, much better results. Just want that even wax and then we can move that around as we see fit once we put it on. Oh, that's beautiful. Silky smooth. Okay, now I can take a look at this. I've got some on the face here. Then I can look at where I need to put it. And it looks like I got a dry spot there. So I'll put it right here and go again. That's a very nice fit. Last thing I got to do here is to ease the shoulder because you don't want this here sleeve making contact with the shoulder of your. Your tenon. You want all the contact to be directly through. Just like a framing member of like a house. This here. The. The male side of this needs to contact, basically the male side. Two male sides of the tenon. You don't want any contact to be actually on the sleeve portion. Whenever you have the bow strung, it needs to run continuously through the core of the bow. So we're going to ease this so that we have that proper contact. We're not going to ease the backside, which would be here, because the natural shape of the bow makes a little tiny gap there. You'll see what I'm talking about when I string it up. Going to ease that around now. Blow off the dust, put it Back on. Perfect fit. Right, let's go string it up and see what it looks like. You can see how I ease that. So right at this point, there's a bigger gap here than there is here. But when you string that, the natural shape and the pull of the physics of the bow will create a smaller gap here and a larger gap here. So let's go see what we did. You just want to make sure that that socket, that tenon is all the way seated before you string it. You can see the gap is bigger at this point, but it isn't fully seated. So when we shoot it the first time, that's about how we want it to look. Though it's a pretty even gap all the way around. That's about perfect. Now it'll close up just a little bit more the first time it gets shot. Just a tiny bit more. Go ahead and measure the brace height on that. I'm going to give it a little bit more brace height. Do that by twisting the screen counterclockwise. This is a 66 inch bow, so we want plenty of brace height for a long longbow like this. All right? Yeah, that'll work. Alright, let's go. Put a temporary knocking point on here and then we're read. Where do you want to get this, bro? Just put it up here. Now we're going to set this all the way in there carefully so that we don't mess the string up. That should work. Now crimp it. Like I said, I don't want it on there too tight, so I'm just gonna go lightly. Okay, we are ready to shoot it. Let's go see if Nick has his machine.