Why Surfing is Calming

Surfing has really made me acknowledge that it's about the journey in the middle where surfing is about getting to the wave. I've surfed Namibia. It's like I will go and I will research. We will look at charts, the swell charts, the storms will come in, but now we start interacting with friends and we're like, oh my word. Did you see that chart? Just like the storm was really big in South America and it's coming at a different angle and we'll get, you know, so nerdy on these things, but we just like feeding off each other and it's like the richest, most stimulating interaction you can have is this sort of anticipation that maybe it's going to hit Namibia at a certain angle. And then all of a sudden it starts getting closer and closer. And then you're like, we have to go.