Celebrity Facialist Angela Caglia Talks All Things EXFOLIATION

And I'm going to interact with you. So this as always, every Tuesday at 4pm Pacific Standard Time, I get on my website and I do a live stream. And I usually have a topic of interest. And you're welcome to email me any ideas for topics. You can email my Assistant sarah@asstgelakalia.com for any ideas. So today we're going to talk about something that is kind of popular. When my clients come into the treatment room, they like to know more about exfoliation. You know, there's not a lot of education about exfoliation. So we will go into that today and different types of exfoliation. And I want to thank you all for joining. I would love for you to type in what city you're in. This is interactive, so I want to know where you are right now. Type in what city you're in. And feel free to ask me questions while I'm talking. I will multitask. Let us know where you are watching from. All right, so let's go ahead. And, you know, I don't know if many of you know me, we might have some new people here. I'm Angela Collier. The G is silent like lasagna. I have been an esthetician for 28 years. Yes. I just turned 51 years old and it's really not that bad. It's even better. I'm so far really enjoying my 50s because growing up, of course, I thought 30s was old. Now I'm 51. And as long as you take care of yourself and you're healthy and you're happy and you're using skincare that is actually skin care, which we'll talk about. And your lipid barrier is in good shape and it's not sensitized and you're not chasing that train of, oh my God, I need to look 25 when you shouldn't look 25 because you are middle aged. And I want women to be able and men to be able to be proud to say their age. So recently I was on a podcast and I had just turned 50. This was almost a year ago. And her comment back was like, oh, 50 is the new 30. And I said, no, 50 is a new 50. Let's embrace 50. What's wrong with 50? So let's just embrace our age. It's just a number. And let's talk about now together, how you can age better. So feel free to ask me any skincare questions while we are doing this. But I want to talk about exfoliation now when I get a new client. In my treatment room, you know, I take the diopter lens. It magnifies their skin about 10 times, cover their eyes, because it's very bright, and it's a very vulnerable moment. So any of you have received facials? It's like that moment when the esthetician brings a bright light, covers your eyes, and you know that she's seeing every little pore and everything with your skin. It's kind of a vulnerable moment. So I always mention a positive about the skin the moment I look into their skin, because it is quite vulnerable to have someone look at your skin like that. And then I go into what I want to address and how we want to help their skin during this treatment and how we can prepare them to basically maintain what we're about to do in there. And one of those things would be exfoliation. So the first thing I ask when I'm looking at that lens, looking at their skin, I'll ask, how often do you exfoliate? Because I'll look and I'll see something, and it's a leading question. I'll say, how often do you exfoliate? And I can tell when they never exfoliate. And they'll say, oh, two times a week. And I know, I know. But I can also tell when they're not exfoliating too much and their skin is in optimal condition. Less is more approach. Those are the clients with the most gorgeous skin. So we're going to talk about exfoliation and different types. So there's a physical exfoliation or there's a chemical exfoliation. Now, being that I'm an esthetician of 28 years, I prefer chemical. Wait a minute. She's a clean beauty facialist. Why would she prefer. Acids are derived from natural sources, and I prefer acids because my whole philosophy to aging better and to having clear skin, whether you're young or old, having clear skin is protecting and nourishing your lipid barrier. Now, protecting it also means protecting it from some physical exfoliation, because some physical exfoliation, like seeds, for example, apricot scrubs. Remember those back in the day, St. Ives, I think, anyway, they're still out there. Or cleansers that have pieces of walnut shells in them. When you create, as a manufacturer a product like that, because, remember, I am now not just an esthetician, but I work with my chemist as a formulator. So when you create skincare that has seeds, in order to cut those seeds, you can't cut them perfectly spherical. You can't. So if you are massaging into your skin, the jagged edges. The micro tears can happen on your skin, especially if you have any capillary fragility here. So I steer my clients away from physical exfoliants. Unless they're perfectly spherical, like jojoba beads, for example, those are fine. So, you know, actually there was a woman I worked on recently where she had very sensitive skin. Literally, like, she had broken capillaries and very sensitized. And that was just her genetic makeup. She was in her 50s. I asked her what she was using to exfoliate, and she said a physical scrub. Like, literally like a physical scrub with. I think it was apricot. I told her to put that aside because she was actually getting more sensitivity and more like little broken blood vessels. So I said, put that aside. And this is what I recommended for her. A gentle lactic peel. Thank you guys for joining. I really appreciate this. So a gentle lactic peel. So that would be chemical. And what I recommend for most of you to do is to not stress about, did I get my two exfoliations in a week? My whole philosophy is not to be too regimented, because then you're not listening to your skin. And when I begin a facial, the first thing I do is touch the skin. Literally touch it. I will even shut my eyes sometimes just to concentrate on the texture of the skin and how it feels. And if there are certain dry patches, if it's really kind of. There's a lot of buildup or bumps, you need to listen to your skin as well. So when you look in the mirror one morning and you see that your skin is dull and lackluster, and you really just want to feel a little prettier, exfoliation is a fabulous way to do it. So in terms of chemical exfoliants, I love. Love ones that are serums, and I prefer that than the toners because you need to be careful of the toners as well. Some of them are really good. And if you happen to have acne, if you're acneic, the toner with the salicylic acid would be the best for your skin type. Salicylic and glycolic. So some of the toners have a lot of that, and that would be more, you know, suited for your skin type. But if you're like me and you're in your. I'm in my 50s, it feels weird to say, I don't want to use those toners every day. You know, some of the directions on those toners, they're not toners. By the way, wink, wink, those are exfoliant peels. They're not toners. Exfoliant peels. It was all started by biologique rechash the P50, which is extremely well known and cult favorite. That is filled with acids, which is good, but there's a lot of acids. They actually had to change the formula because they had things that were way too strong to bring over to the US but they're still filled with acids, and a lot of people use that every day. That's too much. That's like giving yourself a peel every day. And what happens when you do that? The first few times, your skin looks amazing. Why? Because your skin has so many dead skin cells. And we'll talk about the cycle and how it changes as you get older as they don't slough off as much. So you do need to go in there and do your own exfoliation. But if you're using something really strong like that every day, the first couple times, your skin is fabulous. And I did this myself. I'll tell you my example. I did buy it, and the first time I used it, I'm like, wow, I get it, I get it, why everyone loves it. And then the second day, yeah, same thing. But I'm telling you, like the third or fourth day, all of a sudden my skin was bright red. And then I didn't use it, I stopped because my skin was bright red. It's embarrassing when you're an esthetician and you go in to give a facial with bright red skin. So I knew it wasn't right for me. But then, of course, I wanted to try again because everyone's talking about it. So I grabbed it again in my cabinet, this was a couple years ago, and I used it again. Again, my skin was extremely bright red. So it just didn't work for me. And it's a lot of acid, so it's basically a peel. So we all need to remember that. And there's a lot of other brands being the. The excitement of Biologique Recherche and how everybody wanted it, they kind of duped it, basically. And some are not as expensive as the Biologique Recherche, but they duped it. And it says toner. We think of toners as something different. So it's a peel and you have to be very careful not to use it very much. And again, listening to your skin, if you use it, and all of a sudden your skin was red like mine, or sensitized or flaking, you've probably gone a little Too far. So what I recommend is to go to your esthetician once a month and get like a 30% peel, like a lactic peel, a mix of peels. But you should go in and get it professionally done and then just do some very minimal maintenance once a week at home, like a lactic serum. Good Genes has a very nice lactic serum. I do recommend that to my clients. But it's important that you just listen to your skin and know that you don't have to exfoliate all the time. We're over exfoliating, and if you're watching right now, I'll bet you're over exfoliating. Most of you are. So let's just talk about kind of the process of our own bodies. Now, remember, our skin is our largest organ. It's an organ like your heart, your liver, it's an organ. So being it's your largest organ, when you are like four or five, your skin cells naturally exfoliate, like every four or five days, like, boom. And that's why they look so gorgeous. You know, the four or five year olds, their skin is beautiful and perfect. But as you get older, that process slows down. Just like everything slows down, your sebum production slows down. That's why we'll get into the skincare in a moment, which will help to push that back into your skin. We've pinned the souffle. This is a live stream shopping. So feel free to go ahead and start shopping. Thank you, guys. Can you hear me? Yes, you can. Good. So basically, it's just you need to listen to your skin and look at your skin and just know that you don't need to exfoliate a lot and let me know that everyone can hear me. Okay. As well. Okay. So what happens is when you're young, three or four, it's quite quick. It's every three or four days. As you get older in your 20s, it's about every 21 days, where your skin cells will shed and replace themselves. And it does all the time. So if you never wanted to exfoliate, you're fine, by the way. So as you get older, 40s, 50s, it's longer. It's like every 35 days. So that means you have an accumulation of dead skin cells, which means your skin care isn't quite going in as well as you want it to be. And you don't quite have that glow. Your skin could be more dull. Okay. And lackluster. And your fine lines and wrinkles could look more pronounced. So my philosophy is a little each day in whatever you're using, meaning not using all the strong peels that sensitize your skin. There's a, there's a trend called kind of the German New York, a female, I think it was Dr. Whitney did this whole like Instagram or TikTok on skin cycling, which if you first listen to it, it makes sense. She's saying, okay, use your retinol, use your peel pads, then take a two days off, don't put anything on your skin and then come back and use your retinol and your peel pad. I disagree with that entirely because what you're saying is use this stuff that's going to really sensitize your skin and then wait till your skin can heal itself and then just go do it again. Okay. That is not good for aging. So what I do with my skincare and I have a new product I'll be launching in January. There's a tease. That was it. It's not going to be in this jar. This is a lab jar. But in this new product I have a lot of anti aging ingredients. But also there is a hint of exfoliation. So you can do this on a regular basis to where you're not able to, you know, you're not, you're not going to be in that. Oh, did someone say no sound? Can you guys hear me? Someone just said no sound. Oh, no. Let me know if you can hear me. All right, let's see here. Looks like we're having some technical difficulties. Let's see. I can't hear either. All right, so no one can hear me. All right, let me try and fix this. I don't know, dude. All right, guys, can you hear me now? Let me see if you can hear me. Huh? Would you get on your phone and try and listen? Yeah, it's intermittent. Okay. I hope we're okay here. We're talking good stuff here. Okay. All right, can you guys hear me now? I hope you can. All right, so we were just talking about how as you age your skin cells that you shed, it takes longer. It looks like this did not work out. No one can hear me and I don't know why. All right, I'm so sorry. We're going to redo this. Come back at 5pm 5.