Emily Evans explains how to safely remove an internal wall. First, determine if it's load-bearing, which requires a structural engineer and steel beams. Non-load-bearing walls are simpler to remove. Hire an accredited builder, get building inspections, and plan for how the space will look and feel after.
So these days, everybody loves open plan living, kitchen, diners, kitchen, lounge areas. But you've got to remove a wall. How do we even start in this process?
If you're going to take a wall out like this, you've got to check if it's load bearing. Load bearing is exactly what it says. Is there a load on it? It could be another wall. So with this one, does the wall continue up onto the first floor? Is it, is there a roof on it? Alternatively, it could be the floor joists above sit on this wall above. So if you took the wall out, the ceiling's going to drop.
We don't want that happening.
No, it's not ideal, quite dusty. So once you've established if it's load bearing, and it is, you need to instruct a structural engineer.
What if it isn't load bearing?
I would say, even if you're short, get expert advice. You, you don't want to take a wall down, then find the roof collapses. So let's say it's not, it can just come out. So often you'll get a stud wall which has very rarely got anything on it because it is literally timber. Or you can have a block work wall with nothing above it and then anyone can take those out. So if you've had a bad day at work, come in and literally just bash the granny out of it.
So you've said about structural engineer and you said about getting a builder. Do I need planning permission?
Unless it's a listed property, you don't need planning. Again, if you're unsure any of this, ask the engineer or even just phone the council saying, look, this is our property, you can see from the records we've had work done in the past or the previous owners have, but actually just say, look, we're taking the outside wall out, we're extending building regs is fine. Chances are it will be yes.
So why did you not put a second story on this section of the house?
Well, the main reason was planning. Apparently it would have gone through on appeal. But if you look at this extension, we're talking eight, nine foot internal walls, which isn't that big. So if you put a standard ceiling height of 8 foot, this room would close in. But because of this, no Second, sorry, no first floor, this pitch is approximately about 18, 19 degrees. But involved in that you put these big, big roof lights in, which generates a lot of light. And to be fair, you wouldn't have thought this is only 8 foot. But because of this deception, because you've got your vaulted ceiling, extra Light. This is feeling a lot, lot bigger than 8 foot. And again, some people close it in with ceilings and have a light tunnel, leave it open. It gives you this great sense of space. But just bear in mind those first floor windows, because you can't take a roof up over you can. It just looks awful. So there's many ways of doing it. But I said it before, get the right builder in, because structurally this has got to be right.
Can you just summarise it all for us?
Right, first of all, think about how you want to live in it as a family, as a couple, or if you're developing it, what's going to add the maximum value? Simple. This wall's coming out to extend. First things first, check if it's load bearing. We've highlighted the ways in which you can do that. Secondly, it's got to have a structural engineer to work out what loads above, what grade of steel needs to go in, etc. Next point, and this is the important bit, I think, get the right man for the job. You can go on accredited websites such as Federation Master Builders, where they're inspected, vetted, all the liability insurance is checked. So that means if there's a problem, you're covered because their insurance will pay for the work. Once you've got the right builder, agree the price, get a building inspector from the council or from an independent company to come and inspect it. And then, as I say we mentioned earlier, get the cost right. Does the cost just include taking the back of the house out, putting the steels in and leaving it, or does it include all the making good, the plastering, the setting of the beads, any coving architraves? If there's a door that's got to be hung, clarify that with the builder. So I think they're the simple steps to make sure you get the right steel put in by the right person, finished in the right way.
Scrimp on the sofa, not on the steel.
Exactly.
