Velocity Banking Case Study With A 2nd Lien HELOC

Denzel Rodriguez walks through a velocity banking case study using a second lien HELOC to pay off a mortgage faster. He compares this strategy against making extra mortgage payments and investing the same cash flow to show which approach builds wealth quickest.
Welcome everyone. Denzel Rodriguez here, your personal finance geek of the 21st century. And today we're going to be looking at a velocity banking case study. We're going to be looking at using the velocity banking strategy to accelerate a mortgage. We're going to compare it to making extra payments every single month and seeing how long that takes. And then we'll also compare it to if we were to not pay off the mortgage and simply take the cash flow we currently have and invest it somewhere and we'll talk about what that looks like. This video is going to be broken up into multiple videos to help you really go through each of the sections here very slowly, very carefully. I've mapped out all the numbers. You can check my math by, you know, pausing, pulling up your own spreadsheets, your own calculators, and following along with me. Most importantly, mainly for those that are trying to figure out, do I pay my mortgage off early, if so, how do I go about doing that? What debt elimination strategy should I use? Or is it not worth paying off my mortgage currently and just investing the money elsewhere and ultimately ending up with more money over a say, 30 year period or 25 year period, however long you have left on your specific mortgage. So this video is really going to help folks that have a mortgage. You have positive cash flow each month, you're relatively good or very good steward of your money, you have a consistent income, right? Or you are salary plus commission. What I'm going to display here on the board is a case study of an individual. We're in the state of Colorado. Okay. We are going to be looking at an individual that has salary plus commission. What I did was simply look at the salary of a couple, husband and wife, just looked at their base income. I did not include commission to have more consistent numbers. So obviously, whichever strategy we choose, they're going to do better than what I'm illustrating, simply because you're just injecting more money into any one of these strategies. So my goal here was to try to make the numbers as simple as possible. I'm evaluating where they're currently at, giving you a little bit of information about the person. Okay. We're dealing with a husband and wife. They've got good salaries, good income. They have been doing velocity banking on their other debts using a home equity line of credit in the second position. Okay. And we've now reached a point where they're like, should we just keep plowing through, become debt free, then look at investing, or should we leave this mortgage alone, invest our money in our business or invest into some kind of passive investment, create more income? Or do we stop doing velocity banking because the math doesn't make sense and just do extra payments? Alright, so with that being said, let's take a look at the board. It's going to be heavy. It's a lot of information here. We're going to take it piece by piece. So we have the four major numbers. Person bringing in $15,450 a month salary plus commission. Again not even including the commission part. Our total expenses are $10,950 a month. Total debt, just the mortgage. Everything else is paid off. We've used velocity banking with a second position home equity line of credit. Credit Union of Denver. Okay, actually correction, we're using a personal line of credit before plus credit cards. Now. We obtained a home equity line of credit which is there, which is on their primary residence. So this is a new HELOC. I'm recording this video. March of 2025. The property was acquired in December of 23. All they ever done was just make the regular mortgage payment each and every month. So now we're at a current balance of $650,514.22. The way I'm illustrating, my velocity banking strategy is actually putting it a month forward, even though most of this stuff would have occurred in the month of March. So my strategy is going to show us 30 starting in April, neglecting whatever cash flow was produced in March to create room for error here. So now we have this home equity line of credit 150 grand, 6.49% intra rate for the first year. And then after that interest rate period is done, it'll go to a prime -0.25%. Currently prime is at 7 and a half percent. So we're going to estimate a 7.25% interest rate a year from now. And I'm going to illustrate that expiration occurring April of next year, 2026. Even though by the time we actually get things going, it would have most likely the period would have expired in March. Okay, so I'm showing it expiring in April just because I'm pushing everything forward on a fresh month. There are some unfair advantages that I want to point out when you're practicing the velocity banking strategy, which I believe gives a boost to the velocity banking strategy when comparing to making extra payments. If we were to look at the person's cash flow just Simply looking at 4,500amonth expenses at 10,950, let's just say Those numbers stayed the same for the duration of accelerating this $650,000 balance. The math that I have, they'll have this home paid off in eight years and two months if all they did is make an extra payment of 4,500 at once. And the way my Excel illustrates it, and when you really use any amortization calculator, the assumption is the impact of that $4,500 payment is an immediate impact. So the very next month you see the difference. In reality, those of you who are making extra payments to your mortgage. If we're looking at your mortgage payment being due on March 1st or the 1st of every month when you make your normal mortgage payment and then you go through the month of March, most people accumulate their positive cash flow by the end of the month because they're holding on to their money to make sure that they've paid all their bills on time. So they're not actually sending an extra payment to, to when the end of March. So when you make that extra payment of say 4,500 toward the end of March, it doesn't reflect the interest calculation of it. Reducing doesn't reflect on April's mortgage payment. So you'll still owe April's mortgage payment. So you're going to make your 4,500, but then you're also going to make your regular mortgage payment. In this case, their principal and interest only payment is $4,280.75. Whatever interest has already been assumed in your amortization schedule leading on April of 2025 or wherever you are in your mortgage, that extra payment that you're making is not going to impact in a good way that April's mortgage payment, it'll impact May. So there's a little delay that occurs. And that little delay does create a little bit of an advantage for when you're doing velocity banking. When you're making these lump sum chunk payments, you're satisfying the payment that we're in, whatever month that we're in, and you're making the payment in advance, say March 1, as opposed to waiting toward the end of every month. And so when you're making those extra payments, it doesn't, it always reflects the following month. Typically, if you're making that extra payment toward the end of the month, or I should say after the statement has already been delivered to when you see your next mortgage statement mortgage balance, when you go to make that extra payment, it'll reflect on the following. You'll see the reduction of interest moving forward at that point versus when you're doing velocity banking, it's instant, especially if you're making that extra payment. Right. When you make your normal mortgage payment of the month that you're in, because it hasn't had time to produce next month's statement, the closing date hasn't occurred just yet. And that's with a lot of amortized debts. Creates a little bit of an advantage there. Nothing crazy that does create a little bit of a flow here when you're doing velocity banking. So there's that point to keep in mind that creates a little bit of an unfair advantage. The second thing that I encourage a lot of my clients to look into is removing escrow from the mortgage payment. So instead of paying principal, insurance, taxes, and what is the other thing? Interest. Right. Piti, principal, interest, taxes, and insurance. Instead of that being bundled into one payment every single month, if you were to remove escrow from your mortgage, and now you're responsible to pay your property taxes and insurance, and you pay your property taxes in full at the earliest time frame, as well as your homeowner's insurance, paying that in full. Chances are I've experienced this with my own home. You actually save money on the bill itself. For my property taxes, the way it's set up in Florida for me is I have the option to pay my property taxes in November, and I can wait all the way till the following year, February, February, to actually make the. To pay the property tax. If I wait all the way to February, the bill increases by about 4 or $500, as opposed to if I paid it in November. Oftentimes almost every time. When I work with clients who have mortgages, once they've had them for a few years, they'll tell me things like, my escrow was short this year, so now I owe more money. And then it makes their mortgage payment, their overall mortgage payment, more expensive. They think that their mortgage payments going out, it's like, no, the escrow went up. And I think sometimes there's. I don't know if there's fees attached to that, but I do see money getting lost. There's money that's falling through the cracks. People's personal finances. And that's another unfair advantage that I would identify with. Velocity banking. That when you're talking to anybody else that, say, doesn't like velocity banking or is against it, you're not gonna learn that information. You're not gonna be encouraged to remove escrow. Handle it yourself in a separate account. Just pay it when it's due. Meanwhile, you now create temporary cash flow on a month to month basis that you maybe could be doing something else with, as opposed to having that money sit in an escrow account doing nothing for you and ultimately it not being enough because your property taxes went up or your homeowners insurance went up, and then it eats away at your cash flow on a, on a monthly basis. It does have an effect when you're doing velocity banking. Typically we remove escrow from the mortgage, we pay it on an annual basis, which reduces the bill itself and that creates temporary cash flow to help us chunk toward the very thing that we're trying to remove. And then we have all this space to handle the bill when it eventually comes up. And what you're doing is you're, you're creating this gap in time when you're essentially not paying interest. Especially if we park it in a 0% card, which I'm going to go through here, I'm going to break that down with you. If you're doing velocity banking, meaning you're using a line of credit and you're waiting to pay a bill, you've made a chunk towards something and now you're waiting to pay this bill that's going to be due in the future, you've got that money helping you actually pay down your chunk on a daily basis. So you're reducing your average daily interest cost by leveraging money that's eventually going to come out of your economy. It just needs time. So that could be 300 and something plus days before that expense ever comes out of your account. How many days of less interest am I being charged in my line of credit, which ultimately reduces my cost of interest. There's a lot that I'm sharing with you here. So removal of escrow can potentially produce savings. In this case, instead of our taxes and insurance being 19,800 or 1650amonth, which is lumped into the 4280,75. So it's like 5900 bucks or something like that. Instead of having that go out monthly, we're going to remove this, take that 1650 back, not have to dis. Unfair advantage is running your lifestyle expenses. Typically where I like to start is consistent recurring monthly expenses on a credit card. And we're not just going to pick any credit card, we're going to pick the most advantageous credit card according to the way you spend money. And what that'll look like is you're going to get a cash back reward or points option. Typically if we're paying off debt, I like to lean more Toward cash back rewards because it's right there and it doesn't encourage more spending on a, on a luxury lifestyle consumer item for points. Right, because in order to redeem points, you have to spend right to actually get those points Versus if you're just spending what you normally spend every single month and you stay consistent and you just see a cash back reward and then apply that cash back reward to the statement balance of the credit card, what did that do on a monthly basis? Well, it reduced your cost of living so you get a return on spend. In this case, I'm illustrating a 2% return on spend for stuff that they're already doing. That's going to create a little advantage for me. In this case, I'm illustrating 3,500 running through a credit card, one credit card, and getting on average 2% cash back rewards. That's $70 a month, 70 times 12. That creates an unfair advantage that money is less interest being paid, more cash flow. Whoever has more cash flow wins. Now in addition, when you find the right credit card and you spend a certain amount within the first 90 days, 120 days, you can get what's called a statement credit of 100, 200, 300. I've seen them as high as $700 and that's typically on the business side. But sticking with personal, typically around 1 to $300 is what you'll see with big banks, even smaller credit unions for a statement of credit for simply spending money, not just new money, but consistent bills. So this is not what I'm not trying to do, is create bad habits for people. But it's simply all I'm doing. Instead of you pulling out a debit card, I'm having you pull out a credit card and then you pull from your debit checking account, auto, pay statement balance in full, pay the card off each and every month, no interest is paid. I get the reward of the statement credit and the cash back rewards. That creates an unfair advantage. That's say $200 plus $70 every single month, plus $800 in savings. You see this unfair advantage I'm already creating, these are elements of velocity banking. When I'm working with clients one to one that I'm building to present the case why this is going to go faster because of all these different elements. And then the machine that makes it flow is having the right tool. Home equity line of credit, personal line of credit, business line of credit in conjunction with a credit card or credit cards. In this case we have our main debt tool, Home equity line of credit, second position. We have a second tool, credit card to run bills consistently each and every month. We chose 3,500. They can obviously do more or less. So this is just me being conservative. Then last move, you take another credit card and we analyze this $10,950 worth of expenses. We look at the entire year, we analyze and say what are bills that you pay on a monthly basis, that if you switched to annual, just like we did with homeowners insurance and property taxes, that if you went from monthly to annual, that it reduces the bill itself. So we identified car insurance and a bunch of different subscriptions that this family has about 500amonth in subscriptions, 693 in car insurance on multiple cars. If you take these two numbers times by 12, you get 8,316 for car insurance and subscription, 6,000 a year. Now if we were to switch those subscriptions and switch the car insurance, paid it in full for the year. Reason why most people don't pay things in full because they what, they don't have all the money available. That makes sense. You only have 4,500amonth in cash flow, which you're already allocating to debt elimination. So you don't have the ability when not leveraging debt to do that. Which again creates this unfair advantage. If I use a credit card that's on a 0% on purchases for 12 to 18 months, let's say in this example, I'm using a credit card that I'm just going to run bills and pay off each and every month, doesn't have a promo, then I'm using another credit card with a promo, 0% on purchases, 12 months. That means there's no cost to borrow this money. There's also going to be some cash back rewards on there that I didn't even include in this to again make my case conservative here. So it creates room for error. Then I'm saying, looking at your bills, where can I find money that when you're just making extra payments, it's going to create this unfair advantage, going to help me go faster. Right? Because again, when you're in that world of people that don't use debt, avoid debt like the plague, think debt is horrible and you know all these disciplinary issues that come with debt. If you're someone that already displays and you have a history of discipline, this becomes a matter of logic and strategy, very little emotion. I can also understand this side that's talking to people that don't know how to handle themselves when using credit cards or when Using debt. So I'm the type of financial coach that operates in both worlds. I work with clients all day that are not doing velocity banking. Not because the numbers don't make sense, but emotionally, they cannot handle the strategy. It's like me giving them a loaded gun to a baby and expecting that baby to not blow their head off. Right. Or even a child. Okay. That they're not going to hurt themselves if I give them a loaded gun. Works the same way. When you're looking at complex financial strategies. You got to start people off at a place where they feel confident, and I can build that confidence. So there's a lot of clients I work with. I'd say a good 30% or more. My clientele are not doing velocity banking at all and may never do velocity banking. And that's totally fine because they'll actually go faster than if they tried to do velocity banking. Get it wrong, make all these mistakes, forget to do this, forget to run the math. Don't do this, don't do that, get excited, Think they have more money all of a sudden. That's not the case. Fall under this temptation or illusion of capital money. No, no, no. This is logic strategy. When I deal with people that can handle that, like this person here. Good steward, good display, good track record of saving, investing, spending less than what they make every month. Cash flow positive. Just all these good disciplinary actions. Velocity banking is just rocket fuel to what they're already doing. And then I'm just throwing in these little pieces here. That just creates more efficiency and eliminates a whole lot of risk. So with that, if we come back to car insurance and subscriptions, we could reduce those cost of bills from 8,316 down to $7,900.20. And then instead of 6,000, we're at 5,400. That's a total of a thousand thousand. $15.80. Okay. And the total out of pocket, that would sit in the credit card for 12 months, $13,300.20. That creates a monthly minimum payment obligation of around $140. That's what I illustrated. The actual payment will be lower. And then each and every month it shrinks because just based off the minimum. So that's something that I'm going to factor in on my strategy here. When we're looking at the expense Now, I saved 1,000 here, about $500 in statement credits between two cars, 2% cash back, $800 savings here. Let me share my screen with you so that you have another visual that puts it all Together in a way that I believe would be very helpful. So here we have information about the mortgage and the breakdown of the expenses of what's happening. Where I get that total number of the 10,000, 9:50. Then you take a look at the breakdown here of money that I saved. Property taxes and insurance, car insurance and subscriptions, cashback rewards per year, statement credits. All together we're looking at about $3,400 in savings, about 285amonth reduction in cost of living. Then the big piece is the interest game that we're going to play now, because this is a game that we're playing. And then I'm going to show you how I came up with my first chunk where I'm basically breaking down my rules of leverage, also factoring in the person that I'm dealing with and the total line of credit that we're looking at. So we got $150,000 line of credit. Cash flow times 12 at 4500 is 54,000 a year. 66% or 2/3 of 150 grand is 99,000. That is my chunk, Rain. And all I did was take the savings and the removal on a monthly basis of certain expenses and just added that into my chunk and you see how I got this 7451580 number. Here's my chunk range that I have. I chose 74,515 80. I show it coming out in April. I show an interest cost max $403. When looking at 6.49% for the first year, the mortgage is at 6.75. There's no debate. I'm going from 6.75 and I'm taking principal out of there, putting it at 6.49, paying a slightly lower rate. But then I'm going to illustrate how I don't end up paying this 6.49% percent in a full year. If we were to look at this full $74,515 80 times 6.49%, I should pay $4,836.07 in a year. All right, so let's let me write it right here. Oh, market doesn't want to work. Give me one second. $4,836.07 is what I would pay on this home equity line of credit if all I did was make an interest only payment of $403 every single month. Where this strategy fully comes together. Because these were all like external things that I'm juicing up the strategy to make it even more Better, but it's all coming together. You have to incorporate all of this. You don't want to just do one thing. You want to put it all together. Very, very important, I think, for optimal results, especially in the beginning when we actually do the strategy, which is I'm replacing my checking account with this line of credit. This line of credit is going to be where my income sits. Instead of my income sitting in a checking account doing nothing. For me, this income is going to sit in the line of credit. It's going to stay parked there, which is actively going to reduce the total amount of interest I pay on 6.49. I want to be very, very clear with my words. What I'm not saying is that I'm changing the interest rate because 6.49 divided by 365. Let's say my daily rate is 0.177808219. It's this long number. You can look at it on any disclosure. When looking at a line of credit or home equity line of credit, you can ask them for what's my daily rate? I have my total percentage rate, but what's my daily rate? So if your daily rate is this 0.01 number and let's say you only owed 74,000 for less than 6 months or less than 12 months, do I pay 4836.07 or does it end up being a lesser amount? Especially if I'm parking all income in and then slowly but surely money's coming out throughout the month to pay bills. I'm essentially reducing the total amount of interest I pay on 6.49%, which in summary, that number could be half of this 48, 36 could be less than half. So we're going to try to evaluate what that number ends up being in this case study here as I, as I walk you through what I illustrated here. So we have a $74,515.80 chunk, which is pure principle. I'm still making the 4,287 5 payment that same month in April. So I'm going to make my normal payment in this case now. I'm just making 4280 because I removed escrow. So I'm just making the 4280. 75. And I'm going to make this chunk of 74,515 80. That's going to have an instant reflect on next month's statement for the month of May. Let me see if I can show this to you. Kind of illustrate the potential impact of what this does. Go ahead, share my screen again. Zoom in a little bit more. So I have the breakdown here of the mortgage. Okay, started out balance. Here's where we're at. First payment. If I take out that payment real quick, I was at just making normal mortgage payments. This would be paid off in 30 years. Right. If I make this 74,515 80 went from 360 minus 269. So I just removed 91 payments or 7.5 years off the mortgage balance versus just doing a payment of $4,500 goes from 360 down to 353. So obviously there's going to be a big difference there. But we're going to show over the next 12 months what the impact is on 12 payments of $4,500 versus Velocity banking one year, 74,000. Do Velocity banking for one year. See what the total amount of interest you paid in the line of credit roughly as well as on the home. Here is what 12 payments of $4,500 from April 25th all the way to March. So just showing 12 total payments going in. We went from 360 payments down to 292. So you saved 68 months or 5.66 years. So what's helpful here, this is, this is where I think I will differ from other Velocity Banking practitioners. Personally I don't see this conversation being had often, but right there I showed 70, 91 payments compared to, was it 60 something payments removed 360 minus 292. Yeah, 68 compared to 91. That's just one chunk of Velocity Banking. We're going to still go through it now and see where we end up with Velocity Banking. How long does it take us to actually remove 74 grand factoring in all this other leverage we created over here? Got to factor that in. But what would it look like instead of trying to compare Velocity to extra payments the whole duration of the mortgage, what would it look like if you use Velocity Banking at the beginning of your mortgage and then you get to a certain point in the mortgage where it no longer makes sense to do Velocity banking, how to identify that and then just make extra payments the rest of the way through? I would argue that that person not only goes faster, but you're securing the early wins of Velocity Banking and not diminish your potential returns of Velocity Banking. I think when people do Velocity Banking the whole way through on their mortgage without consideration of their interest rate going up and down in that period, you can end up getting similar. You still might go faster by say six months, nine months. But if you're trying to secure like a two year, three year, four year gap in difference, I would strongly argue that the tail end of the mortgage, once you've eliminated majority of the interest, say 50% of it, and now majority of your regular mortgage payments go into principal, you're going to have diminishing returns every time you make the next chunk. So you absolutely want to have a lower interest rate at that point. If you don't, if your interest rate is higher now in your line of credit and it jumped a few points, you're going to want to stop. Especially if a 3, 4% mortgage, you're going to want to cut that off at some point. That would be my only tweak for a lot of folks that are doing velocity banking on their mortgage is where extra payment starts to catch up is on the tail end. So if you had a three year head start, two year, it starts to diminish. If you're now creating more of an interest cost in your line of credit becomes unattractive, you don't want to do that. So taking a look at the middle part of the board here, made this first chunk in April. I'm showing income of 15,450 going into the line. I'm showing 8,107 of expenses coming out. Reason why the very first month the payment on the credit card is not actually going to be due right away. So it'll be due next month. So that's where you see the expense number goes up a little bit more to account for that 140 payment. My numbers are going to look a little bit off. If you go 74 minus that and then add that, you might get a little bit of a different number. I just created like errors on purpose and then showing a higher interest cost per month on purpose because I'm not factoring in the impact of the credit card. The 3,500, how long did that sit before it actually came out of the line of credit? So I just created a lot of little errors in here on purpose to dilute the results here just a little bit. Just again create room for error because people do make mistakes sometimes. So this isn't going to be like pinpoint. I don't think you can ever get it pinpoint because you will have fluctuation. Also when you're running bills through a credit card, especially if you're paying the statement balance each and every month, chances are your statement balance is not going to be 3,500 every single month. It might be 2,000, it might be 4,000 next month, it might be a little bit later, lesser than next month because it's based on when you actually swipe the card and when the statement balance close. So you can create a little finesse there as well that I just won't get into in this video. But that also creates another unfair advantage where you're basically parking expenses for a longer period of time at 0%, allowing your line of credit to get paid down faster, ultimately paying less in interest. So we got income expense coming out. And I go, may, I go, june, July, August. This is the ending balance that I'm showing at the end of each month. I'm showing that ending balance, the number in quotations, guesstimating total interest being paid. We come all the way to November and then I show 13,200 being paid for taxes. Now, when it comes to the timing of this, like you might have removed escrow after you've already paid into it quite a bit. So you might get a return of escrow. When you remove escrow, there might be money in there and then it comes back to you and then that ultimately gets used to pay your taxes. So maybe that number ends up being less. But again, created another room for error there for our favor. But still is giving extra payments. A little bit of an upper hand here in that example. So 13,200 for taxes. I show okay by the end of November, balance goes up. December, right? Velocity banking, same thing. January. Then I show January. Between January and December, I Show Homeowners insurance, 6150 coming out brings the balance up again. I'm at 19,841, 54. February 12th, March, 52, almost 5300 bucks. What else has to happen between March, April? I illustrate us paying off the credit card here, right? You're paying 140 every month. So if you do 140, I showed 11 months because month 12 I just paid off. So I reduced it from 13,300 down to 11,700. 760, 20 cents. You pay off the credit card with the available equity in the line of credit to avoid paying 20 something plus percent in the card. Now here's an opportunity. I didn't show it here because I only want to show the first year and again, be conservative, room for error. But you could be slick and go get yourself another credit card and do a balance transfer of that 11,760 and let that just sit right on a 0% card for another 12, 18, 21 months, whatever it is, that's going to have a benefit on the total amount of interest you pay in the line of credit. But for now, I'm showing the 11,760 coming out increases to 17k owed. Then I also show us paying our car insurance and all our subscriptions again of $13,300.20, because those, those bills are now due again. Right? So you don't want to forget to not put that in your strategy. So I showed that coming out brings our balance all the way to $30,355.94. And then in the next video, I'm going to start us off with an interest rate of 7.25% moving forward starting April of 2026. And let's evaluate how long it takes to bring that to zero and also determine when my next chunk is going to be. The last thing I want to share with you is the potential amount of interest that we pay from April 2025 to March 2026, not counting April yet, I believe this person will pay under $2,500 in interest. So as opposed to paying 48, 3,607 minus 2,500 is a 23, almost $2,400 savings in interest. And then you also look at the impact of how much interest we're now paying in the mortgage. Put that all together, you can make a strong argument we're not paying new interest over here on the heloc. The amount of interest I pay on the HELOC was already in the home. So I took a little bit of that out. I canceled out interest. The mortgage amortization schedule doesn't recalculate. It was already mapped out. So the only thing you can do in an amortization schedule is cancel interest. It doesn't recalculate and then now charge you less. It was always there. So you can either pay the balance off early and pay less interest or don't and then pay whatever interest that you ultimately pay in that mortgage. But then you need to use that number to figure out how much you can potentially potentially invest to get ahead of that interest to ultimately have more money when it's all said and done. So in the next video, I'm going to start us off at April 7.25% and do Velocity banking. So far, we have eight years and two months, which I like to use as my measurement stick to compare velocity banking to say, okay, if we're going to do velocity banking, the end result needs to be better than eight years and two months. I don't want it to be eight years in one month. Does that, you know, all this work for just one month improvement? No, I want to see, you know, six, five and a half. I want, I want to see a year, year and a half, two year gap because that's huge. Because at that point if I can get someone to pay off their home quicker than the norm, then taking that cash flow plus no longer paying a mortgage payment and drive that into an investment, would I end up with more money over that same 30 year period or would I end up with close to what the person that never paid off their mortgage early. And then we're just going to evaluate all the different nuance benefits and things like that. So with that being said, my name is Denzel Rodriguez, personal finance geek of the 21st century. If you'd like me to run your numbers on the board board, we can have recorded whiteboard sessions together. I do coaching, I do training, I do support one to one accountability. This is what I do all day long. I love this. I'm someone that's not one way is the only way. I'm someone that says is there a way to bring all these different ways together without getting a major headache? And if so, let's proceed and if not, let's do this. So I've learned over the years I've become very neutral, unbiased when it comes to this velocity banking strategy. It's a tool belt, something that I have and I use it when I believe it makes sense and I'll tuck it away, won't use it if I believe that this client's going to end up hurting themselves. Now I can't prevent someone from doing velocity bang. They want to try and go and do it. Hey, at least look at these principles. Hey, make sure you look at this and rule of leverage and watch this video and look at this breakdown and look what I'm including here and be sure to look at this and make sure you're adding this and leave room for error overestimate so that you don't over promise and undeliver results for yourself. At the end of the day it's, it's you that you're essentially competing against which strategy is ultimately going to line up with you. So with that being said, God bless you, have a wonderful day and we'll talk soon. Bye now. You will have fluctuation also when you're running bills through a credit card, especially if you're paying the statement balance each and every month. Chances are your statement balance is not going to be 3,500 every single month. It might be 2,000, it might be 4,000 next month, might be a little bit later, lesser the next month because it's based on when you actually swipe the card and when the statement balance close. So you can create a little finesse there as well that I just won't get into in this video. But that also creates another unfair advantage where you're basically parking expenses for a longer period of time at 0%, allowing your line of credit to get paid down.










