Brian Johnson uses big-wave surfing to explain how to handle life's challenges. Train hard, recover deliberately, and position yourself so you can ride the waves that come. Laird Hamilton shows what happens when you prepare for something bigger than yourself.
You need to move beyond what you think you can do. And it's kind of like paddling with intensity out to catch a big wave. Once you've caught the wave, you do everything you possibly can to show up as the best, most heroic version of yourself. Then something bigger than you takes over. You don't have control over the size of the waves, but you do your best with what's there. When there's a big set of waves, hit it hard. It's like Laird Hamilton and his buddies who are really into big wave surfing, and it's a huge set, and he's like, dudes, let's go. And what do they do? Well, hopefully they've trained because they've shown up and in the flow channel, gotten better and better and better at handling bigger and bigger waves. So not only are they not afraid of drowning, they're not going to drown, or there's always the risk of drowning, but they're excited about it. The bigger the waves, the better. If you want to be able to show up and ride the waves of life, you need to create waves in your life. We want to get as low as we can and as high as we can in life by training our recovery as hard as we train, the intensity with which we show up.
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