Shereene IdrissBoard Certified Derm, Founder and Chief Nerd

Glycolic Acid “Drug Claim Secret” Straight from a Dermatologist

2 Jul 2026 · 1 min

Watch on YouTube

1:15

In this YouTube monologue, dermatologist Shereene Idriss reveals why many skincare brands avoid advertising the full range of glycolic acid’s benefits, citing the thin line between cosmetics and drug claims. She explains that glycolic acid, an alpha‑hydroxy acid (AHA), chemically breaks the bonds between dead skin cells, providing surface exfoliation and a radiant complexion. With regular use, it can improve fine lines and skin texture by stimulating collagen production. Idriss also notes its efficacy for hyperpigmentation, dark spots, uneven tone, and melasma—provided it does not cause irritation. Additionally, glycolic acid promotes epidermal hyaluronic acid synthesis, acting as a humectant that makes skin appear plumper. The overall message balances scientific evidence of these physiological effects with regulatory caution that limits how brands can market them.

Chapters

A lot of skincare companies will not talk about these benefits that I'm about to tell you when it comes to glycolic acid because it borders on drug claims. Whenever you change the physiology of the skin, it's technically considered a drug, even though the studies and the science has shown that glycolic acid has the ability to do these things. Glycolic acid as an AHA can dissolve the bonds of the dead skin cells, exfoliating the surface of the skin, smoothing out the surface of your skin, giving you a nice radiant surface. In the long run, as you use it regularly, you're going to help improve the look of fine lines. And because it is exfoliating your skin, but also because it is going deep and helping promote collagen production, it can help in the long run with the appearance of texture as well. And this is something that is often not promoted when it comes to skincare brands, again, because of this iffy gray line between a cosmetic and a drug. Glycolic acid also has the ability to help with the look of hyperpigmentation, dark spots, discoloration, uneven skin tone. If you have melasma, it is a great product to incorporate as long as you're not getting irritated. Plus, she also helps to promote the production of hyaluronic acid within your epidermis, making it a great humectant as well and making your skin appear plumper in the process.