How To Prep 40+ Skin for Makeup So It Stops Settling Into Fine Lines | Dr. Idriss

I am sick, but I am on without a single drop of makeup on my face. I have not yet done my skincare. All I've used is my lip peel and my lip baste. And I'm here to talk to you guys about how to prep your skin before makeup, especially if you are 40 plus, because we change as we get older, whether you like it or not. And our skin starts to respond differently to the makeup that we're using on our face. And I have had the pleasure of sitting in many makeup artists' Cheers! And I've learned many tips and tricks throughout the year, but the one constant that I have noticed is the makeup is only as good as your skin prep and your skin is. So today I want to share with you what I do the night before full glam up until the morning of the day of getting makeup. And it doesn't have to be full glam, this is stuff I even do on a weekly basis every day. But I do think that if you are somebody who's gonna have some big event coming up, doing this can definitely take it to the next Before we fully jump into what I do, why does makeup sit differently on your skin in your 40s? Our skin has lived life, and so number one, dryness comes up in a different way. Especially, by the way, if you're living somewhere it's dry, God bless you, okay, for choosing to live somewhere super dry. And I know winter's upon me, so the joke's gonna be on me in a couple of months. But as we age, we produce less oil, and as our skin produces less oil and our hormones start to shift, that shows up on our skin as appearing slightly drier, crepier, etc. And foundation sits differently on skin that is dry versus skin that is hydrated, and that's why you can get patches and patchy flakes and whatever, um, on your face. Number 2, the texture of our skin starts to appear more dull because as we get wiser, our cells turn over usually at a rate of about 28 days, right? So when you're in your 20s, it's every 28 days. to 30-ish days. But as you go over 40, it's about every 40-ish days that your skin turns over. So what does that mean? Those dead skin cells are sitting on the surface of our skin and making us look ruddier and drier and just not as radiant. Which leads me to number 3, the appearance of fine lines. Because yes, our collagen and our elasticity is starting to break down, but when you compound that with the slowness of our cells turning over plus the dry factor in our skin, our fine lines look much more pronounced than what they actually are. And using a concealer or foundation eventually sets into those lines and emphasizes the look of those lines. Texture is what I like to deal with the night before, but dryness and dehydration, those are what I focus on on the morning of my skin prep. So let's get started with the night before. I wash my face, brush my teeth. I take my lip peel and I use it next to my eyes. I always go in with— I use antihistamine eye drops, and then I will apply the flash mask. Now I will do this overnight. Don't go too close to the eyes, don't go into the corner of the nose. And after it dries after a few minutes— now because I know I can tolerate it as a leave-on, I will go ahead and just put a little bit of a moisturizer on top. And I'll use the Active Seal. If I'm trying to look good the next morning, this is what I do. If my skin is feeling very, very dry, or I'm also in a very dry environment, then I like to make my own DIY face mask. Okay, so I will use— not mask, mist— a little bit of water, like 50 ml or so, like half water. I'll use half Rose water, Lebanese. So this helps get the red out, and especially today because I am sick and stuffy and my eyes are just like out of control. And then I'll put a little bit of glycerin. Now glycerin is a humectant that holds on to water. You don't just want to mist water on your face, you want to make sure that it is holding on. So if it's half water, half rose water, then probably around like a third then Or a fourth is going to be the glycerin. And then I'll put the directions here. I just shake it, shake it, shake it, shake it, shake it, and then I use this on my face. Okay, if you do not have the bandwidth to create your own DIY glycerin mist, you can also use Caudalie's Vinoperfect spray. Eau de beauté. It does smell lovely. You feel like you just came out of a spa. But these 2 options are great options to just kind of start to set the foundation of your skincare. Now that we have misted, we are going to focus on the under eyes because the under eyes need to get the longest amount of face time with a product in order to hold on to that moisture, especially after you turn 40. So before I was 40, I, I'll be the first to admit that I thought eye creams were like, whatever, just use Vaseline. And I still stand by that. I think Vaseline is great and it can actually do a lot of benefit under makeup. But if you want to really internally hydrate your skin, you're gonna need more than Vaseline and you probably need something that's going to help to hold onto that hydration underneath your skin. So the lip peel that I put under my eyes, it does have glycerin in it. It is going to start holding onto hydration while keeping the skin slightly looking smoother. If you're someone who's puffy, you can absolutely use the depuffer. It comes in a roller and if you have redness, it's a 2-for-1 win. And so for me, I just wanna put a tiny bit up here because I am very sick and I just wanna make sure that I do not come across as red-eyed all day. I'm just gonna put a little bit there. You can roll it, you can use it, it's perfect, but it's not gonna offer you the hydration that you're looking for. So if you're looking for lighter hydration, let's say you have very fine crepiness and you want something that has lighter hydration that's not too heavy, that can sit nicely under makeup, I actually really like this one by The Ordinary, Lacto-PDRN 4% with Vitamin B9. I really do like it. I think it has a very nice lightweight effect to the under-eye skin, but it's not going to be the heaviest of eye creams. So if you're looking for something stronger, I'll just avoid this. The one thing that it does do, which can be a double-edged sword, it does have a fine film-forming effect. If you're looking for something with— if you wear a very natural makeup look and you want something with a light firming effect, it's this guy right here. But if your fine lines are showing a little bit more and you want more moisture and you want something that is going to kind of quench the thirst of your skin, right? Olay has their Firming Eye Cream, which is this guy right here. Now this is definitely thicker, and you know what, for the sake of this video, I'm going to layer them to show them to you guys. But this is a thicker moisturizing eye cream that can definitely keep your under eyes more plump for a longer period of time. I will never put too much eye cream because you don't want to be swimming in your makeup. So if you took out too much and you don't want to waste it Always use it on the front of your neck where you tend to get a little bit crepier faster. And then we have our thicker eye creams like this one by Dr. Jart+. This is really, really good if you have really, really dry under eyes and they're really, really tight and you feel like your skin is drinking up your concealer. Richest of the 3, and this one has ceramide and panthenol. Now this is a very, very rich rich, rich, rich eye cream. And if you live somewhere humid, you will probably feel like you're swimming in your face if you're not that dry. So really take into account your environment as well as your issues underneath your eyes. Now, for most days, I find myself trying to get out of the house pretty quick. I will probably do the depuffer when I wake up, which is like the first thing that I do. And then if I close this— Oh, sorry. And then I do, I take my shower, totally fine. When I come out, I just use my Hyper Serum underneath my eyes. And for most days, that's enough because I'm not layering on so much makeup on my face. When I get glam, however, I may sit with the Hyper Serum and an eye mask underneath like this one by Dieux to let my product really seep into my under eyes and to give my skin that, you know, occlusive hydration that I'm looking for. But as I'm getting older, I have found that doing the lip peel definitely helps when I am applying the Hyper Serum. It works better. I do find that having a little bit of a thicker base for my under eyes is better. So the Hyper Serum used to work wonders, but as I'm getting older, I find myself gravitating towards thicker, richer creams as well. So you have to really look at your under eyes and understand your skin and the environment that you're in. Once we have addressed our under eyes, we then want to address our face. And so you want to in with your targeted serum, the serum that you use every day that you like. For me, that is my holy grail, my favorite child. I will say this over and over again, the Hyper Serum, because it is a hydrating serum. Again, I have not done my skincare today yet, so I'm doing it for you all on camera. But this is a hydrating serum that is also going to help to brighten in the long run. So I go in with this. I'm always a little bit lighter on my nose because my nose tends to get oily. Because my perioral derm, I'm not gonna go nuts around my mouth today. But I really like this one to keep my skin hydrated and looking bright over time. I also really, really like this guy by Kiehl's. It is their Collage Shot Plump Serum. Funny, when I used this a few weeks ago, I got quite a few comments. How's your skin so shiny? This is the lighter of the two, so normally I should start with this one. One. But the Kala Shot— the Kala— I can never say their name— the Kala Shot Plump Serum, um, is going to help to really give your skin that hydration boost that you're looking for. I am feeling all sorts of crazy today because I'm not feeling well, but especially as the fall is right around the corner and heaters are starting to go on and the air is starting to get drier, thinking of how are you hydrating your skin from lightest to heaviest is very important. So those are 2 great options that I have on rotation. I would not layer this with this in the summertime when it was very humid outside, but I would definitely use this at night. And now going into the winter, I could see myself putting this underneath this. The air gets drier, which leads me now to moisturizers. When it comes to moisturizing, I want you to think of this as if you're getting full, like, professional glam versus everyday. If you're getting full professional glam and you're really going in heavy with your makeup, you want to look for a moisturizer with emolliency, something that's going to give you a nice occlusion, that's going to fill in the cracks. And I have 4 options for you. The first is a tried and true French classic, also known as Embryolisse, their Lait Crème Concentré, which is basically mineral oil and waxes in this. So it does have a little bit of an oily, waxy feel to it, but it does fill in the cracks beautifully. And when you take a look at the actual product, it is a nice thicker, richer moisturizer. And this one is one that many makeup artists have reached out to when they're doing my own makeup. And for the sake of this video, I will show you what it looks like on my face. Um, I'm going a bit lighter again because of my perioral derm, so I'm just trying to be a little bit aware of this area because I don't want to occlude too much. But it is a very nice, beautiful moisturizer that absolutely does fill in the cracks. Okay, if you want something that is a little bit more reflective, that is a little bit, I would say, lighter but more of a modern emolliency system that has shea butter in it, it is Summer Fridays. So it doesn't feel as oily as the Embryolisse cream does because there's that mineral oil in the Embryolisse that this one has a water and mix, but it is a very, very, very thick moisturizer that does get really absorbed beautifully by your skin, so it doesn't feel heavy. So I call it lighter because it doesn't have that heavy aftereffect, but it is thick and it does drink up— your skin does drink it up. Beyond that, there's 2 products that I like that are slightly on the richer side. Next one is a classic that I used to talk about a lot, and it's is Weleda Skin Food, and I'm not going to use it today because I do not want to add too much occlusion to my face. But I'll take a tiny dab of this and put it on the high points of my face to give my skin its glow. But if you want something that is more modern, that basically does not feel like an oil all over your face but has the cushion of an oil, then it's InnBeauty Project's Extreme Cream. It has a nourishing, glossy, creamy feel, so it almost feels like the cushion of an oil is the best way to put it, because it has water droplets suspended in oil, but it doesn't feel like you've put oil all over your face. So you don't feel like you're going to be swimming in an oil bath all day. So those are the 4 creams that I use before getting my makeup done professionally, or if I'm trying to use heavier makeup. But if it's my everyday makeup, which is relatively light, I will go in with a gel cream. And I love the Dr. Idriss Major Fade Active Seal. It is a lightweight gel moisturizer that just gets absorbed beautifully and sits really nicely underneath makeup. I never want this to go to waste. And the other one that I have found myself turning to is the Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Cream. It is also a very lightweight moisturizer, so if you're living somewhere very humid, it literally just gets absorbed in 2 seconds in your skin. If you're living somewhere very dry and you are very dry, You can absolutely layer one of these underneath the thicker moisturizers I just told you about. So I would call this a basic moisturizer. I would call this a basic moisturizer. I would call the InnBeauty product a basic. These are basic moisturizers that are meant to hydrate your skin, right? But they're not giving you any added benefit in terms of brightening your skin or peptides long term, etc. So this is where you're getting that brightening effect long term. This is where you're getting the peptides longer term, lighter weight moisturizers. So if you need something heavier, you can always add a basic on top, and it delivers the perfect amount of brightening, hydration, and, um, emolliency over it if you're doing your makeup. So I'm giving you guys these options because I think it's important that you understand where you kind of are in this lineup, because your skin type in the environment that you're in matters, and the type of makeup that you're using also plays a huge role. Last but certainly not least, sunscreen. So if I am getting makeup done, I will go for a chemical sunscreen filter situation, an organic filter situation where I know it's not gonna leave a white cast. And that is why I have done the Major Fade Disco Block in this manner. And it does give a nice glowy effect. I will say when you have perioral dermatitis, less is more. I'm not going to be out in the sun today, so I'm just going to do this for the sake of just, um, what's it called, demonstrating it. Oh, she's almost done. Oh, look at that! Oh well, she's on her last squeeze, guys. Oh my God, I need to get another sunscreen. I didn't realize this yesterday. So okay, we got what we could get out of this guy, but I'm just going to demo this for you. But I want to show you how it gives. And again, I do not come here on purpose because I don't want to irritate it more. But it gives your skin a nice glowy effect, especially if you are dry. And so I will put the sunscreen on my face. If you are somebody who wants a 2-for-1, a sunscreen that can double up as a makeup, this is a great one by Erborian. It's a BB cream. So if I'm really like rushing, I'm on the go, I just use this one and it looks like I have makeup on. But this is not a good one to layer underneath makeup because it comes with a tint and it can be a little bit thicker. So pick your pick. I don't put this back. I need to get myself a new sunscreen today from the office. But I hope this video was helpful. I'm sorry if I'm a little bit slower. I am definitely under the weather, but I'm gonna go do my makeup now. And if ever you wanna refer back, I will share a short of how I do my makeup. Or if you want me to do a long-form video on how I do my makeup, I'm always happy to do so. Have a beautiful Saturday, and I'll see you guys next week.