What Every Beekeeper Needs To Know in June

From this point, things get tough. Here are all the questions you should be asking yourself as a beekeeper in June. So first up, the June gap. What happened? When was it? Probably if you're anywhere in the UK, you're going to say it was at some point throughout May, maybe in the middle of May for some people, maybe early May, maybe back end of May. I think this year with the weather that came in, with the cold weather, it would have been quite rare to have the June gap anywhere really within June apart from very northern Scotland and up in So the reason I say that, it was so windy, so cold, all the wind came in, blew the blossom off the trees again and again, and it rained. And then you get like a couple of days of sunshine and then the same thing happens and it just repeatedly washes away that blossom. And then it seems like overnight the flow stops and you're into the June gap. Now a lot of people don't realize that they hit the June gap. They're just looking outside as I am today thinking it's just another miserable rainy day. And it's only when the weather comes back and you get the nice weather again that you go and see the type of pollen that's coming in, the type of nectar, and you can see the forage coming into flower. You can see the bees working it. So if you've experienced anything different and you've had a particularly late June gap this year, stick it in the comments. I'd be very interested to hear about that. But I think for the majority of people watching this video that will go live on the 1st of June, I think most people will have already experienced the June gap, and it's probably best to prepare for what comes next. So the next question you should be asking yourself, or at least looking at every single time you go into your apiary, is, are my colonies becoming more defensive? Now, as I said in the April and May videos, April and May It's super easy. The bees are chilled out, the colonies are relatively small, there's always good forage coming in, and you get pussycat colonies. Now, as these colonies grow, as they get bigger, there's just a lot more bees there. And then if you go into periods like the June gap of lack of forage, and you've just got a surplus of these older worker forager bees that don't have anything to do because it's cold, and then you open up the colony during that time, you're probably going to get stung quite a lot. So you do need to go in, you need to keep up your inspection regime, But I would be lighting the smoker for these occasions. If you've been going in and not bothering with the smoker and thinking, well, this is easy, they're super chilled out, as you progress into June, I always light my smoker before going into any colony because I know there's potentially going to be a lot of bees there and they're potentially going to be very bored with not that much going on. Now, even as you come out of the June gap, depending on what the weather's doing, they might be a little bit more grouchy than they were in April and May. You'd probably expect that anyway. But as the colony starts to grow, if you can keep ahead of the swarm control, there's just more bees. There's more bees, there's more robbing, there's more wasps, and we'll cover all of that later on in this video. But the mixture of all of those 3 things brings out defensiveness. So it's not a case of, oh, my bees were really calm in the spring and now they're really, really angry. They've just got a lot more to deal with. But if you're seeing a really sharp, sudden change of temperament, so maybe they were pussycats in April and May, and then overnight they're pinging you out of nowhere, you're almost certainly in the June gap, and something like that should subside as the flow comes back on. But as I said, get your smokers lit. June, July, August, September, I go in every single inspection with the smoker lit and making sure that it is lit, ready to puff if I need it. So next up, is there still swarm pressure within my apiary? Absolutely yes, there is. It's a little bit strange because the June gap feels like the period where something's changed. It feels like you've got past a major milestone. And really it's just this arbitrary line that says everything before it is spring crop and everything after it is summer crop. And in a lot of places in the UK, there will be that pause in the middle, but it doesn't really signal anything to the bees. It doesn't signal anything in the way that they do anything differently. So you are still in prime swarm season. And the real next trigger for the bees that always comes post-June gap for us in the UK is the summer solstice. So as the bees are working up and the days are getting longer and the brood nest is expanding like this, The bees kind of have one thing in mind. They want to build up nice strong expansion and they're thinking about swarming. They're thinking about reproducing and going off somewhere else. Now the summer solstice is June the 21st, the longest day of the year, and then every single day after that it gets a little bit shorter and the bees use that as a signal. The bees are aware of when the sun comes up and when the sun comes down and that dictates the state of play in the brood nest. It dictates where they're going to put the honey within the brood nest. The bees actually do quite a lot differently after the summer solstice and we'll cover all of that in the July and the August videos, but— In terms of June, it gives you a 3-week gap. 3 weeks where it's like, oh, that's a really awkward part of the season where there's lots of bees, they're compressed down, the days are getting longer, the bees are thinking about swarming. What shall I do? Now, I said previously, if you were going to do a Demarais split, there's a nice slot in May to do a Demarais split pre-June gap. So it gives you the ability to feed through the June gap by taking the top brood box, putting it down underneath, taking off your supers, but you've effectively given the bees a nice big 40-pound super to go on top, and then you can reuse that as you come out of the June gap. Now, if you didn't do that and you're watching this video and thinking, oh, I'd like to do a Demerara this season, from the 1st of June to the 21st of June, just perfect 3-week period just because of the numbers. But the way that the Demerara split works is that if you're on a single brood and you've got a queen excluder and at least 2 supers of bees— any more than 2 supers is absolutely fine, no less than 2 supers— though. You can take that bottom brood box, lift it up to the top, take the queen, put her downstairs in a brand new brood box, and then there's a little bit more to the manipulation. You have to come back after 8 days, knock down the emergency cells, but that's the only thing that you have to do. And what that gives you is coincidentally a really good system to lower that swarming instinct for 3 weeks, the 3 most difficult weeks of the year. So it's good if you didn't do it pre-June gap to get you through to take off some honey. You can do it post-June gap to mitigate The worst part of swarming. Really good system then. And then once you get past that, the beauty of this system is you're doubling down on the amount of forager bees that are available for the summer flow, and you're timing it to coincide with exactly the longest day of the year. So there's probably going to be a week or two after that where if they're going to swarm, they're going to swarm. But then if you get them through that period and they don't, and the weather plays ball, you couldn't set your bees up any better for a bumper summer crop. That's where the majority of the honey is going to come in in the UK. It's the summer crop, generally a kind of 2 to 1 split, but it does vary. But the summer yields a lot better than the spring. So if you're heads in hands at the moment thinking, I didn't get anything in spring, and really frustrated, don't worry. Keep the bees there, make sure you've got a strong brood nest. We're going to cover loads of other things that you need to do to make sure that you're set up for those bees going into the summer period. But all is not lost, it's very much still all to play for. So a good question you should always be asking yourself is, what is the reason I'm going in to do this inspection. If you can't justify it, then you shouldn't go in and do it. But during the active season, you should be going in at least once a week and doing swarm management or swarm mitigation if you see it. And there's no way of seeing it without going through and inspecting the frames. However, there is an inspection and there is an inspection, and it's not always the same thing that you should be going in for. I'll do this first couple of inspections of the year. I'm thinking, I'm really enjoying this. This is nice. It's peaceful. I'm taking my time. I'm kind of going through all the frames one by one. I start at the one closest to me and I move it over and it's quite a nice flow state. I enjoy my inspections, a nice mindful, peaceful retreat. But then April and May get a little bit real and the time pressure comes on. So I find myself just going in and lifting out the middle frame and do I see eggs? Yes. Okay, I see eggs. And then I kind of peek down. Are there any swarm cells on any of the bottom of the frames? No. Okay, onto the next one. It's like a 2 or 3 minute inspection. Now I'm not suggesting that you should necessarily do that in June, but with the information that I'm giving you in this video, you'll know that the bees are probably going to be a little bit more aggressive. The temperament's not going to be there. There's going to be A lot more bees there in the colony. So make sure you've got a smoker and maybe just go in and do a slightly quicker inspection. A little tip I gave out the other day to people, and people weren't aware of this one, is that if you're on double brood, one that a lot of bee farmers use is instead of going in and inspecting 22 frames to see if there's any swarm cells on it, all they do is they just kind of lift the top box up, peep underneath, and they say if there's no cells, no swarm cells on the bottom of the frames from the top box, they say that's like 99% sure the bees aren't going to Swarm. You'll always get the odd anomaly, but if you're doing it on scale, that is a massive, massive time saver for you. So it's about inspecting with the June mindset or the July mindset or the late summer mindset, going in, do your job really quickly. Do you actually have to be in there? Because you will see as we go into July and August, we're out of the active swarm season. So my recommendation becomes no, you shouldn't go in and do any inspections whatsoever. You should check to see if they have space, but we treat the brood boxes out of bounds now. That happens later on in the year, and I'll be doing all of the videos on this channel to make sure you get every single question answered. So the next question you should be asking yourself pretty much on every single inspection is, is my brood box getting backfilled with nectar? And you're gonna see this on like a daily basis as well, where the bees put it in there and then they move it up overnight. But you can really see it on the colonies where they were restricted for space, either in the brood nest and/or up in the super, where there's now a problem in the brood nest. The nectar has turned into honey. You've got multiple frames of honey downstairs in the brood nest. You need to stay on top of that as you go through your inspections. inspections and just monitor what is actually available for the queen to lay down there. It can quite quickly get out of control, and then you'll trigger swarming because she's not got the space to lay. If you're going into your brood nest and finding 4, 5, 6, 7 frames of capped honey down there, it's too much. It really is too much down there. I would say you're aiming for 2 frames, outside frames, maybe 3, something like that. But anything more than 4, and I'd be going in, taking those frames out, putting in frames of foundation. And letting the bees draw them out, which naturally suppresses swarming as well. So next question is, do the colonies have usable space outside of the brood nest? So we can make that space available for them down there and that should help. But unless you make the space available upstairs in the supers as well, they will just backfill down to whatever space you've created in the brood nest. So you do need to manage both of those kind of together but independent of one another and be aware of how they interface as well. At this point in the year, I'm still going in and being much more aggressive when I put on my supers. I very rarely, very, very rarely go on and add a single super onto any colony. I always start off adding 2 on at a point when it's not going to damage the colony at all by losing the heat upwards. So I try and delay it as much as I possibly can and then go big. And then when I go back and look at them and say, okay, I think they need another super, I'll give them another 2. It has negligible impact on the colony, and it just gives you an additional buffer, an additional factor of safety when it comes to compression and the amount of space available within the hive to not trigger swarming. A good question to ask yourself is, do I need to rotate my supers? Do I need to put the top one at the bottom, or should I be moving the frames around? And it definitely helps reposition what the bees are doing, so you can get them to draw out new foundation if you want by taking the mature honey up to the top and then putting a box of foundation underneath. You can put quite a lot of work into the management of the comb within the supers and where the honey is, and all I would say is if you're on a good quality shallow box and you've got your spacing right and fixed, and you're going in and adding the foundation in there. So long as you've got a good flow, I would just leave the bees to it. You're going to come back and it's going to be 95% good, and you're going to have saved all of that faff. You really, really are. So it's not to say that it doesn't work. It's not to say that you won't get marginal gains out of doing it. I would advise against it just because I think it's unnecessary faffing with the bees, and I don't think the time that you put into it is worth what you get out of end. If you set things up correctly at the beginning, then you just don't need to worry about it, and it will all sort itself out at the end come harvest. We teach all of that in 14-Day Beekeeper. If you're interested, check it out at 14daybeekeeper.com. So am I leaving enough honey for the bees for the June gap? Now, how rubbish would the video have been in May had I not covered that one? But it's a big mistake that I see a lot of people making, and it's one that's really easy to mitigate. You either take off all the honey double brood the bees, so double the amount of space in the brood box and feed them and make sure they're taking the feed down from the feeder. That gives you a perfect setup for further expansion and splits, and most importantly, it keeps the bees nice and healthy and active and well-fed during the June gap. Or you need to be really conservative and just say, right, there's 4 supers of honey on there, I'm going to take 2— 2 for me, 2 for the bees— and then monitor them to make sure they have enough food. If the weather turns poor, you need to take the supers off, Double brood them and get some feed in as soon as possible. Now it might seem like a weird configuration there where I'm saying to take the shallow supers off and to put the double brood boxes on, or put additional brood boxes on, and then feed. You don't ever want to feed through your supers. I see some people doing it. It's a really good way to contaminate your supers with sugar, and I wouldn't do it at all. Always take the supers off before you do any sort of feeding. So do my colonies need strategic feeding in June, and is that helpful? Absolutely. This is one of the biggest parts of beekeeping, is understanding what's going on with the calendar, what's going on with the weather, what's going on with the forage, what's going on in the hive, and making the necessary adjustments for sustainable management. Now I'm not saying I'm perfect, far from it. I get things wrong all the time, but I'm able to reflect on it and adjust things going forward. And you really do start to get the hang of it when it comes to feeding. If you make small splits early on in April or May and you're building them up, You can definitely feed them too much. The bees will just store a lot of that food and you'll end up with unbalanced nucs. The answer to that is just slowing down the feeding a little bit. It's nothing more than that. Instead of giving them 10 liters straight away, just give them a liter, liter and a half, wait for them to take it down, give it a day or two, give them a little bit more. You want slow and steady growth as opposed to just pouring as much syrup in there as possible. It's not a good return on your investment. You want to turn the syrup into frames of bees Brood. You don't want to turn the syrup into frames of syrup. That's really, really easy to do. So you're being strategic there. You're saying, well, I want growth, so I'm going to give them less. Whereas people might see that as, I want growth, so I'm going to give them more. So they'll just feed more. So there's lots of strategy that comes into play, and we do it with our breeder queens as well, keeping them well fed to make sure that they're consistently laying, but ensuring that the colony is always remaining very, very small. So we use our feeding all the way throughout the year when we're raising nucs or when we're getting colonies ready for winter, or maybe we're going in and doing emergency feeding because we pushed it too far. But all of those come with a little bit of strategy. They come with the idea that we're trying to give the bees exactly what is best for them to work alongside the beekeeper. I'm really a strong advocate of keeping very healthy bees and working to their timeline and adjusting our processes along the way, as opposed to doing it the other way around. This should have been question number 1, without a doubt. Is my beehive now queenless? Now I went round and did a full inspection across maybe like 60 or 70 colonies yesterday and, oh, beekeeper's back, tell me about it. But it was a real hard slog and I was going through and for anyone who doesn't know, my wife was very sadly diagnosed with breast cancer this year. So my life has changed quite a lot and I can't do the things that I was able to do in previous seasons. But what it meant is I had to gamble on a lot of colonies. I had to do a lot of preemptive splits. I had to do a lot of walkaway splits knowing that I had the chance to go back in after about 4 weeks to go in and correct it if needs be. And the correction was just going to be go in, find the virgin, kill the virgin, add in a mated queen, knowing that the colony would have dwindled right down, but it's in time enough that they've not turned laying workers and you can build them back up again. Really, really good lazy beekeeper's technique, that one. But that's what I went ahead and did. I went around a lot of those yesterday and the mating success rate on the virgins was zero. It was 0% because they're in quite high exposed locations. So they're not where we got our UK queens mated. But I thought I'd just give them the chance to go and not a single one was mated. And a lot of them, I didn't find virgins in there either. They were probably hiding somewhere. So I think a lot of people will be in a similar situation, which is if your bees swarmed or you did a preemptive kind of like walkaway split, then there's a high chance in the UK that your colony will be queenless at this point. And if you do nothing now after that 4-week period and you know that they failed, there's no chance that that queen is going to get mated. And as I said, if you do nothing now, all of the bees in that colony will die. The only way out of it, and it's borderline to get it to work, is just pushing the boundaries of when they're going to turn laying worker. But you need to go in, you need to find— there'll probably only be one virgin at this point because she would have killed off all the rest of them. You need to find that virgin, kill that virgin. There won't be any brood, they're instantly hopelessly queenless, and then they'll be very, very willing and ready to accept a new mated queen. You have to do this now. You have to do it in June. June, you still get a little bit where you're not going to have the robbing, you're not going to have the wasps. But as soon as you get into that wasp season, They will come and they will wipe out colonies like this in a matter of hours. In order to stay ahead of wasps, you have to act now and you have to get those brood nests firing on all cylinders once again. You have safety in numbers and you need lots and lots of bees to stop the robbers and to stop the wasps. So one of the nicer questions that you'll ask yourself at this point in the year is, have my queens been successfully introduced? Maybe you bought some nice calm F1 Buckfast queens and introduced them and made up some splits, and what you should be seeing now is really nice dense, compact brood patterns in the center of the frame indicating a really nice mated queen. Do keep an eye on them though. Make sure they're well fed during that early stage once they start laying, and it really will support the growth. If you're requeening an AMM colony or a local dark feral stock or whatever you want to call it, be aware that even putting the best queen in there as well, they do occasionally try and supersede them. Even with perfectly fine queens, my recommendation for you is once you release any queens from the cage, you need to go back in every 2 to 3 days, and if you see the beginnings of any supersedure cells, You need to go in, take them all down one by one, and then rinse and repeat. Keep on doing that until all of the capped brood starts to emerge from the new queen, and the chances of a supersedure at that stage go down dramatically. Next question, should I be reducing my entrances now to reduce robbing and wasp behavior? Love that question because the answer I would say is probably no, you shouldn't be doing it just yet. But the last thing that you should be doing is waiting until you see the robbing behavior, waiting until you see the incoming wasp pressure, and then thinking, okay, Which, which guard shall I buy? Which entrance reducer shall I use? You want them baked into your design. We use an underfloor entrance design which is really, really good for defending against wasps, and you can modify it to reduce it further, but it has a very easily defendable underfloor entrance which, if you combine with a big strong colony, is really easy for the bees to defend. But think about this before you get into that season. Have you got the ability to close off the beehive and move it? Have you got the ability to reduce the entrance down to a single bee space in the case that they do start to get robbed. If a nuc is being robbed out by the wasps, like reducing the entrance down to a single bee space probably won't even save it. So what you need to do is you need to pick up that entire nuc and go and put it somewhere else within the apiary, and then where the nuc is you want to put a wasp trap. That's a common method that's used, and all the wasps just go into the wasp trap and the bees say, I'm not going in there, they just find another beehive to go into. So have you thought that process through, and have you thought, well, okay, where's it going to go? Where's that beehive going to go? Okay, it's going to go over there, that's my designated wasp zone. You need to think about all of these things in advance, but specifically look at your beehive. Is it structurally sound? Are there any cracks? Look at it from all angles. Can bees get in anywhere, and do you have a way of closing it up and reducing the entrance right down? These are things that I would make sure that I fixed in June and not wait until later on in the year. Am I keeping my apiary clean during inspections? That is a brilliant, brilliant question. Every single beekeeper should have gloves on when they're doing their beekeeping to not spread disease around. They should have their hive tool and a hive tool washing soda bucket with some bleach in. That is the new National Bee Unit guidelines, which acts as a cleaning agent and is able to sterilize the hive tools at the same time. You should have multiple hive tools in that bucket, and then you want to take out a new different one each time to limit the spread of any of that disease. I also have a number of buckets where I keep offcuts. So if I'm scraping off a bit of wax, or I've got a queen cell, or anything that comes out of the hive, it goes into a wax bucket and Completely sealed up again. What I'm not doing is just chucking cells over my shoulder or dropping honey on the floor or dropping wax. You need to treat your apiary really, really clean because what didn't attract bees, robbing bees and wasps in April and May, will cause a feeding frenzy in June, July, and August. As I said, remember it: April and May are so easy. It should be the other way around. It should start off difficult and get a little bit easier. It doesn't. April and May start off nice and easy. And then June hits very, very hard. One of the things that you can do to limit the risk of it not hitting that hard is to keep very, very nice clean apiaries, not to spill your honey, not to leave scraps of wax around, just keep them impeccably clean. So what is the varroa situation in my beehive right now? Rapid spring expansion brings about huge amounts of capped brood and ideal breeding ground for varroa. The varroa curve is going up at a very steady rate and comparable to the number of bees that's going up. As you move through June, you're still in expansion mode pretty much all the way throughout June because the days are lengthening all the way up to the 21st. And then the 21st, maybe the queen gets a signal to say, okay, the day's a little bit shorter now. I don't think it's anywhere near as quick as that, but even if she got that signal on the 22nd, let's say, all of the brood that she laid the day before and the day before that will continue to emerge. So June, you get a dramatic increase in the number of bees that are in the colony. You're also going to get a subsequent massive increase in the amount of varroa that's in the colony. But as you move out of June and the days start becoming shorter and the bees start producing more honey or backfilling the nest, or actually none of those things, what they're doing is they're just restricting their brood nest, restricting the laying of the queen, and it subsequently means that there's more honey downstairs in the brood box. As they do that, you have to think about where the varroa are going. The varroa are generally found within the capped brood. That's where they reproduce, that's where the majority of them are, and obviously they're going to be on the bees as well. If you've got 10 frames of brood in a big colony, and then it goes down to 8 frames of brood in a big colony, and then 6 frames of brood, and then you're on like 4 frames of brood, there comes a point in July and August where it is peak, absolute peak varroa numbers per bee. And that's the more important thing to look at here. So yes, in June varroa numbers are going to be spiking massively, But so are the bee numbers. The ratio between the two doesn't cause a massive impact yet, so long as you've had a good late autumn treatment or a winter treatment, hopefully both, in the previous season. If you are starting to see signs of deformed wing virus or parasitic mite syndrome, and you might see little holes in cappings or bees going around with crumpled wings and not looking very healthy, then potentially you need to change your honey harvesting strategy for this year and go into getting the bees healthy and getting some varroa treatments in as soon as possible. But for everybody else, you can sit tight in June knowing that you've done everything that you need to do and knowing that you're going to take your honey off very early and use some hard-hitting varroa chemicals to get that number back down to a very safe limit approaching winter. Are my colonies overheating during the hot weather? Brilliant question, that one, isn't it? Who asked that question in North Wales? No, in the UK it is impossible, I would say, for a colony to overheat just when they're outside. The only time that colony is going to overheat, and you can definitely get these conditions in the UK, is when the beekeeper gets involved and they say, right, bees, you're going in this beehive and you're not having a travel screen, and we're going up the road in the back of the truck. And yes, you can completely overheat and scorch colonies that way. It is not nice when you do it, and you only do it a couple of times before realizing that you really do need to give the bees the respect that they deserve when it comes to transporting them. But thinking back a couple of years now, there was a video that I did. It was 38 or 39 degrees C in the UK, which For the UK, I think that's about as hot as it gets. It was really, really warm. I love it warm. I had a quick dip in the swimming pool that day, I think, as well. But I went out to see what the bees were doing, and they were doing what the bees normally do, which is just managing the beehive. Some were going out and collecting pollen in the morning, some were going out and collecting nectar, a few more were probably going out and collecting some water. The hive sounded great. Big fanning air conditioning machine, and it was working a bit harder, but you could see inside the bees were absolutely fine. There was maybe a bit more bearding outside the front. So no, I don't think it's anything that anyone in the UK has to worry about. I think across the world, definitely yes, you need to think about overheating as you move into the warmer months of the year. And you can do that by positioning your beehives correctly, making sure they're the correct color, making sure they're not attracting heat, making sure they're not in a heat sink, making sure the bees have access to copious amounts of water. There's lots of different things that you should be doing. So the final question is, What is my main goal for the rest of the beekeeping season? We do this in business a lot. We come up with a business plan and then we go forward and we create the product, or we do whatever the business plan said, and people often forget to come back and review the business plan. They just like blindly strive towards this goal. I would say the 1st of June is a really nice halfway house to go in and look at the beekeeping season so far. Are you happy with the bees? Are they healthy? Did you get any spring honey? Did the bees swarm? Do you need a hard reset? Do you need to get a new queen in there? Can I get things back on track? And then if I can, what's my plan going forward? Let's use an example that your bees swarm. So you are back on like a single brood box. Maybe you've got a super with some bees in, but not that much honey, and you're not sure of the queen status. Now I know it sounds a bit complicated, but the process that I'm gonna show you or talk about here is generally what will happen to your colony going forward if you can find the virgin. So you need to go in there, find the failed virgin, kill her, add in a new mated queen, so mated queen from somewhere, and then you're likely to see weeks of very, very slow growth. that colony dwindled right back down. Once that queen gets in there, after about 3 weeks post-introduction, you're likely to see all of the capped brood starting to emerge, and the colony will build back up really, really strong. If you think about the timings here, if you do that now on the 1st of June, probably not going to be until like the first, maybe first week of July until that queen's brood is emerging, and you're way past the dangerous swarming part of the season. Now, if you compress the bees down and don't give them enough space, then they will go and they will swarm again. But with this configuration here, if you get it back on track and you ensure that there's always enough space up in the supers to take any nectar that's coming in, you could quite easily end the season on 2 or 3 supers full of honey and a really nice, well-managed brood box. So it's about working out what you want. Has the season gone well so far? Where do you want to be come the end of the season? What are your targets? How can you work towards them? And I think it's just important to break the season up into little mini steps. This step here is about getting your bees back on track for the summer flow and knowing that you're going to go in and take your honey off around the middle of August. It seems a little bit early, but once you know that now, there's not that much left of the season. There is July, there's August, and there is 4 weeks in June. You'll be watching this on the 1st of June, so it really is 10 weeks left of the season because we cut it out middle of August. So forget the 12 weeks, we've got 10 weeks left, and then the season just stops. And remember I said about stopping inspections as well? We stop inspections around 1st or 2nd week of July. So there's like 6 weeks of inspections left. The beekeeping season is over in a flash. I really hope that these monthly videos are useful for you, and if you want to get one step ahead on the next beekeeping season, check out our course 14-Day Beekeeper that will turn you from a beginner to a competent beekeeper in just 2 weeks. Check it out now over at 14daybeekeeper.com.