Can We Ever Dance Again: A Grenache Love Story

Welcome to The Kosher Teruah. I'm Simon Jacob, your host for this episode from Jerusalem. Before we get started, I ask that wherever you are, please take a moment and pray for the safety of our soldiers and the safe return of all of our hostages. If you're driving in your car, please focus on the road ahead. Can we ever dance again? Firstly, this is not about political statements, nor is it about my reaction to horrendous terrorist actions against innocent children. I'm far too mundane to post about such serious matters. That said, I am passionate, passionate about a number of things and people. But many who truly know me know that I am obsessively passionate about wine. So I attended a wine tasting last night that has left my mind abuzz. The tasting was hosted by Michael Marciano of Mica Wines and featured a good friend, David Cohen, from LV Wines in Spain, tasting through a number of his latest releases. To be honest, the main attraction of the evening, besides seeing old friends, was the promise of tasting a brand-new release—their single varietal Grenache, bottled under the Clos Masora brand as Garacha 2022. Let me tell you about my falling in love with Grenache. I first encountered her back in 2017, as part of a group of wine enthusiasts who contracted with winemaker Yakov Orya to produce a custom red blend, a wine ultimately named Special Orya Blend, or SOB for short. In order to facilitate its production and the ultimate acceptance by our group, Yakov arranged a blending session which many of us attended, some even flying in from abroad to participate. To our surprise, Yakov unveiled 5 component varieties that he planned to include in this blend. He had us all taste each component separately, and I was taken by each of the varietals, but really impressed with the Grenache, as it was the first time tasting it as a single varietal. My romance with Grenache had been ignited. We went on that evening, under the masterful instruction of Yakov, to blend component by component, tasting firsthand the meaning of what winemakers call adding depth and complexity while achieving a whole wine that far exceeded the sum of its parts. The blend that was finally produced was Grenache-heavy and delightful. I was totally smitten by the Spanish-born charmer, a deeply rich yet wonderfully playful young enchantress. We have mingled throughout the years, provocatively entwined, as I've danced with many stylistic variations introduced by some of the most creative wine dreamers. From a light, bright single varietal by Danny Friedenberg to the desert-grown expression by Nana or the GSM blends from Pierre at Domaine Nettofa, Grenache has never ceased to delight me. There was that youthful dynamism tempting me in each glass. But then the Clos Massora Garraccia totally unraveled my fantasy. My taste buds were all prepared to dance, ready for that silky youthful temptress. But what I encountered was all grown up. Gone was the light, playfully stylish dress, replaced now by a sophisticated sensation, elegantly enveloped in a Dior gown befitting Buckingham Palace. How had they coaxed such a completely matured palate-warping experience from a single varietal? To accomplish all this without it even being a blend was nothing less than pure sorcery. The experience was just so complete, so all-encompassing, so perfect, so beautiful. A person next to me, also tasting the garacha for the first time, expressed that it tasted so young, too young, which reverberated in my confused mind. Young? Too young? How could my beautiful Grenache ever be too young? Can we ever dance again? Welcome back to another episode of The Kosher Terroir, your trusted source for everything about kosher wine. I'm Simon Jacob, and today, we've got an exciting deep dive into one of the world's most beloved grape varietals— Grenache. From its humble origins in Spain to its prominent role in the wine scene here in Israel, Grenache's journey is one full of history, adaptation, and innovation. So grab your glass, sit back, and join me as we explore the world of Grenache. To truly understand Grenache, we must first journey through its history, starting in Spain, where this grape was born, and tracing its travels across Europe and into the New World. Our story begins in Spain, specifically in the region of Aragon, in the northeastern part of the country, where Grenache is believed to have originated. The grape is actually known as garnacha in Spain, and it has long been considered one of the country's most important and widespread varieties. While the exact timeline of its domestication is unclear, It's believed that Grenache's roots stretch back to the 12th century, when it was first cultivated by monks in the region. Historical records suggest that Garnacha was brought to Spain by the Moors during their occupation of the Iberian Peninsula. However, it wasn't until the 15th and 16th centuries that it became more widely planted, with the Aragon region being a particular hotspot. Grenache's early use was primarily for fortified wines and blends, often paired with more tannic varieties to balance their heavy structure. It was during the 17th century that the wine industry in Spain began to embrace Grenache's unique ability to adapt to dry, hot climates, and it started to appear more regularly in both red and rosé wines. The variety's high alcohol content, rich fruit flavors, and relatively low acidity made it an ideal grape for both warm climates and for creating wines that could stand up to long aging. Spain's warm Mediterranean climate helped Grenache flourish, and by the late 18th century, it had spread far beyond its native region, reaching Catalonia, Navarra, and even the Balearic Islands. Here's a legendary tale of the Spanish invader. In the 12th century, a Spanish winemaker named Don Alejandro is said to have smuggled cuttings of Grenache across the Pyrenees, disguised as something else. The story goes that the vines were so prized back in Spain for their bold flavors and high yields that Don Alejandro couldn't bear to leave them behind when he moved to France. Disguised in a bundle of rosemary sprigs, which were commonly transported, the cuttings made their way into France undetected by the watchful eyes of local customs agents. The plantings were initially secret, But once the vines flourished, word spread, and Grenache became one of the stars of the Rhône Valley. Whether this story is fact or fiction, it captures the spirit of Grenache—quietly sneaking into some of the best terroirs around the world, establishing itself as a true classic. Grenache's migration to France is a pivotal chapter in its history. and it arrived just in time to make its mark on the southern Rhône Valley in the 18th century. It is believed that Grenache was introduced to France from Spain via the Catalonia region, where the grape had been cultivated for centuries. While it was initially used in blends, it didn't take long for French winemakers to recognize the incredible potential of Grenache. By the 19th century, Grenache had firmly planted its roots in the Rhône Valley, especially in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region, where it quickly became the backbone of many of the area's famous red wines. In fact, Grenache accounts for more than 50% of the plantings in Châteauneuf-du-Pape today. It was in the early 1900s that Grenache began to take on an iconic role in the region's famous GSM blends, a combination of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, which produced wines that were rich, fruit-forward, and balanced by deep tannins from Syrah and Mourvèdre. These blends became the hallmark of Rhône wines, and Grenache's ability to ripen fully in the warm climate of the Rhône made it indispensable. But it wasn't just in the Rhône Valley where Grenache found success. As France expanded its wine culture, Grenache spread to other regions with similar climates, such as Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence, where it was used in both red and rosé wines. In these areas, Grenache became known for producing fresh, vibrant wines, that were beloved by wine lovers and became a staple of Mediterranean wine culture. Grenache's rise to prominence in France was also helped by the phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century, which destroyed vast areas of European vineyards. When vineyards were replanted in the aftermath, Grenache was one of the varieties that recovered the fastest, cementing its place in French winemaking history. Grenache played a role in the Great Wine Heist of 1834. In the early 1800s, a notorious French wine thief by the name of Étienne Lavoisier, a man who had an eye for valuable grapes, was said to have stolen the first Grenache vines from the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. According to legend, Étienne had been hired by a local merchant to procure some of the region's rarest varietals. But in a twist of fate, he became so enamored with Grenache's potential that he planted it in secret. In a daring move, Lavoisier reportedly walked through the vineyards at night, carefully cutting off shoots of the prized Grenache vines. Which he secretly propagated. Within a few years, his private Grenache vineyard became the stuff of legends. And ironically, it was his heist that contributed to Grenache's later fame in the Rhône. Some even claim that a small section of Grenache in Israel's Golan Heights is genetically related to those stolen vines. The story of the Grenache girl In the late 1800s, a mysterious woman known only as La Grenache became a local legend in the southern Rhône Valley. She was a winemaker, but unlike other growers who kept to tradition, La Grenache was known for her radical approach to winemaking, always experimenting with new methods of aging, fermentation, and blending. Her signature wines, made exclusively from Grenache, were said to have an almost magical ability to balance fruit, acidity, and tannins. Townsfolk would gather around the vineyards in the evenings, listening to her talk about the grape's mysterious properties—how it could adapt to any climate, how it aged gracefully, and how it seemed to reflect the soul of the winemaker. Though no historical records exist of La Grenache's true identity, her wines are said to have inspired generations of winemakers to experiment with Grenache, and many still believe that the soul of her legacy lives on in the varietal's versatility and charm. These stories give you a mix of historical intrigue, quirky accidents, and local legends, all woven around the fascinating Grenache grape. Grenache's arrival in the United States came much later, but it made a significant impact once it arrived. It wasn't until the late 19th century, when European immigrants brought vines to California, that Grenache was introduced to American soil. The grape's adaptability to warm climates and its potential for blending made it an attractive option for California's budding wine industry. By the early 20th century, Grenache was planted in vineyards in California, primarily in Central Coast and Paso Robles, where it thrived in the sun-drenched hills. While Grenache wasn't initially a star player in California, It played an important supporting role in the creation of blended wines during this period. It wasn't until the 1990s and early 2000s, when the California wine industry began to look more seriously at Old World varieties, that Grenache began to receive the attention it deserved. In particular, Paso Robles became one of the most important regions for Grenache in the United States. The area's Mediterranean climate and diverse soils mirrored the conditions found in southern France and Spain, and wineries began experimenting with Grenache, both as a single-varietal wine and as a part of blends. Today, Grenache is considered one of the top red grape varieties in California, particularly for cool climate regions like Santa Barbara and the Sonoma Coast. Its fruit-forward character, coupled with vibrant acidity, makes it a standout in single varietal wines, while its blending potential continues to shine in GSM wines, which are now extremely popular across the United States. While Grenache's journey took it from Spain to France to the United States, It's also found a new home here in Israel. In the late 1990s, Israel's wine industry was undergoing a renaissance, with winemakers looking to plant international varieties that could thrive in Israel's diverse terroirs. Grenache, with its heat tolerance and ability to flourish in dry climates, was seen as a natural fit. Wineries in the Golan Heights, Galilee, and Judean Hills began experimenting with Grenache, and its popularity has surged in recent years. Now, Grenache is found in single-varietal wines, blends, and even in rosé wines that are increasingly celebrated for their freshness and vibrancy. Israel's Recanati, Tabor, and Dalton winery have all helped lead the charge in making Grenache a household name in the country's wine scene. So, what's next for Grenache in Israel? Are there any new blends on the horizon? While some wineries have been quietly working with Grenache, a number of producers are keeping their experimental projects close to the chest. However, there are whispers about new blends that combine Grenache with varieties like Tempranillo, Zinfandel, and even the more robust Cabernet Sauvignon. These blends are intended to showcase the versatility of Grenache while balancing its sometimes fruit-forward nature with the depth and structure of more tannic wines. In fact, there are reports of a few boutique wineries some yet to be revealed to the public, producing limited-edition, barrel-aged Grenache blends that we may see come to market in the next couple of years. These wines are set to bring a fresh, exciting edge to the Israeli wine scene. They may not be ready for a wide release yet, but when they are, they promise to give us a whole new way of experiencing Grenache. This is a story about Grenache and the Israeli desert—how a grape thrived against all odds. In the early 2000s, a passionate Israeli winemaker named Avi Ben-Ari sought to test Grenache's adaptability to Israel's more arid climates. He planted the varietal in the dry desert soils near the Dead Sea, one of the most extreme terroirs in the world. Local farmers were skeptical, saying no grape could thrive in such a hot, saline environment. But Avi was determined to prove them wrong. Against all odds, the Grenache vines not only survived but flourished, producing a small but incredibly concentrated batch of wine. The wine was a hit in the local market, and it marked the beginning of Grenache's success in Israel. The myth around Avi's miracle vines still circulates in the region, and the wine made from these first grapes is considered a rare and highly sought-after collector's item. So, are Grenache and Grenache Blanc actually the same grape variety, where red Grenache is just simply macerated on the skin to produce a red wine? Actually, no. Grenache and Grenache Blanc are related but distinct grape varieties, each with its own unique characteristics. While they share a similar name and are part of the same family, they are not the same grape, and there are key differences between them, particularly in terms of their genetics and the wines they produce. Grenache Red, known as Grenache or Garnacha, GSM, as it's known in Spain, is a red grape variety that is known for its ability to thrive in warm, dry climates. The grape produces wines that are typically fruit-forward, with flavors of red berries, spices, and herbs. It's one of the most widely planted red wine grapes in the world, often used in blends such as GSM, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, or as a varietal wine. Grenache Blanc. Though it is a mutation of the red Grenache grape, the Blanc variety has distinct characteristics. Grenache Blanc is the white wine mutation of the red Grenache grape. This means that it is genetically a different grape variety, though it shares much of the same parentage as the red Grenache. It is typically grown in warmer regions like the Rhône Valley and Languedoc-Roussillon in France, and is often used for blending, but can also be made as a varietal wine. While the two share similar origins and climatic preferences, there are a few key differences. The most obvious difference is the berry color. Grenache Blanc produces white wine because the grape has white or greenish skin, whereas the red Grenache grape has dark red skin. The reason for the white wine produced by Grenache Blanc is that its skins lack the anthocyanins that are present in the red variety's skins, which are responsible for the color of red wine. There are also differences in the winemaking process. In the case of Grenache Blanc, the production process is somewhat similar to that of white wines made from red grapes, where the skins are simply not macerated during fermentation. Red wine made from Grenache, on the other hand, requires the skins to stay in contact with the juice during fermentation to extract the color and tannins. As far as style is concerned, Grenache red wines are known for their ripe red fruit flavors, spicy notes, and often a smooth, relatively low-tannin profile. Grenache Blanc wines tend to be crisp, floral, and aromatic, with flavors ranging from citrus to stone fruit, and they typically have a medium to full body with a slightly rich texture. It's often used in blends with other white varieties, like Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier, in regions like the Rhône Valley. There is a genetic connection, though. Grenache Blanc is a mutation of Grenache Red. This means they share a common genetic ancestor. But over time, the mutation resulted in the distinct white berry color. And slightly different flavors and winemaking characteristics. However, the genetic code for both is very similar, and they are sometimes even thought of as siblings within the same family of grapes. So, while Grenache Blanc is not just a non-skin macerated version of the red grape as you may have thought, it is still genetically linked to Grenache and is often grown in the same regions. It's an interesting example of how a single grape variety can evolve into different versions with distinct characteristics. It's said that the first Grenache Rosé was born from a French winemaker's unintentional mishap. The winemaker, Jean-Michel Dupont, was known for his perfectly structured red wines. But one year, he accidentally left his Grenache fermenting longer than usual, resulting in a rosé instead of the deep red he had expected. Frustrated at first, Dupont reluctantly bottled the wine and presented it to a local dinner party, only to have guests rave about the fresh, vibrant character of the wine. Word spread, and the accidental rosé soon became a local favorite. The story goes that Jean-Michel's unintentional creation revolutionized the way Grenache was perceived, sparking the rise of Grenache rosé in both France and Israel, where it is now celebrated as one of the best expressions of the grape. From Spain's sun-drenched vineyards to the lush Rhône Valley, From California's Central Coast to Israel's hills, Grenache has traveled far. And it's still evolving, with winemakers constantly exploring new ways to bring out its best. Whether in a Rhône-style blend or as a fresh, vibrant rosé, Grenache has proven itself as a grape of adaptability and complexity. But what makes it truly exciting is how it continues to surprise us, generation after generation. What makes Grenache so exciting, and why it should be on every kosher wine lover's radar, is its adaptability. It's a grape that thrives in many conditions, but it also tells the story of where it's grown. In Israel, it reflects the unique microclimates and varied terroirs, of this fascinating land, giving us an entirely different flavor profile compared to the classic expressions from France or Spain. But beyond just wine trends, there's the winemaking community itself. Israeli winemakers are truly pushing the boundaries of tradition, experimenting with grapes, blending methods, and aging techniques that make each vintage feel like a new discovery. Keep an eye on Grenache—it's evolving right before our eyes. And if you're a fan of exploring fresh, exciting flavors, there's a whole new world of possibilities opening up. That's all for today's episode of The Kosher Terroir. If you've enjoyed this deep dive into Grenache, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Have you tasted a Grenache from Israel? What did you think? Feel free to reach out on our website at www.thekosherterroir.com or find us on social media. And don't forget to subscribe and leave us a review. There's so much more coming your way, so stay tuned for more stories, interviews, and expert insights into the world of kosher wine. Until next time, L'Chaim. This is Simon Jacob again, your host of today's episode of The Kosher Teruah. I have a personal request. No matter where you are or where you live, please take a moment to pray for our soldiers' safety and the safe and rapid return of our hostages. Please subscribe via your podcast provider to be informed of our new episodes as they are released. If you are new to The Kosher Terroir, please check out our many past episodes.