Dermatologist Dr. Jane Yoo explains ceramides as lipid "mortar" that holds skin cells together and prevents moisture loss. Reduced ceramides from aging or over-exfoliation cause dryness and sensitivity. The three most common types are ceramide NP, AP, and EOS, and they work best paired with humectants and occlusives.
Hi, I'm Dr. Jane Yoo, board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon. Today I want to talk to you about ceramides, what they are, and which ceramides you'll most commonly see in skincare products. Ceramides are lipids or fat that naturally exist in your skin. They make up a significant portion of the outermost layer of the skin known as the stratum corneum. Along with cholesterol and fatty acids, Ceramides act like the mortar between bricks, helping hold skin cells together and maintain a strong functional skin barrier. A healthy ceramide barrier is essential for keeping moisture in and irritants out. So when ceramide levels are reduced, which commonly happens with aging, over-exfoliation, inflammation, or conditions like eczema, the skin becomes more prone to dryness, irritation, and sensitivity. That's why ceramides are so widely used in cosmetic products. Topical ceramides help replenish what the skin is missing and support barrier repair rather than simply masking dryness. There are many types of ceramides found naturally in the skin, but in cosmetic formulations you may notice that a few more commonly appear. The most common ones you'll see on ingredient labels are ceramide NP, ceramide AP, and ceramide EOS. Ceramide NP, sometimes referred to as ceramide 3, is one of the most abundant ceramides in healthy skin. It plays a major role in maintaining barrier integrity and preventing transepidermal water loss. Ceramide AP, also known as ceramide 6-2, supports skin barrier repair and is often included in formulas designed for compromised or sensitive skin. Ceramide EOS, sometimes called ceramide 1, is structurally important because it helps anchor lipid layers together, contributing to overall barrier stability. These ceramides are typically synthetic or bioidentical versions of those found naturally in the skin. They are used because they are stable, well-tolerated, and effective when applied topically. Ceramides work best when they're combined with other supportive ingredients such as humectants that draw water into the skin and occlusives that help seal that moisture in. In practical terms, ceramide-containing products are especially helpful for people with dry skin, sensitive skin, acne patients using retinoids, or anyone experiencing barrier disruption from environmental stress or active treatments. They are foundational to long-term skin health.
