Dr. Jane Yoo breaks down double cleansing, a Korean beauty technique using an oil-based cleanser first to remove makeup and sunscreen, then a water-based one for sweat and dirt. It works best for makeup wearers with oily skin, but can damage the barrier in people with rosacea, eczema, or dry skin.
Hi everyone, I'm Dr. Jane Yoo, board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon. Today I want to talk about double cleansing, what it actually is, where it came from, and whether or not it's something you actually need in your routine. Let's start with the basics. Double cleansing is exactly what it sounds like, washing your face twice in a row. But the key is that you're just not repeating the same step. You're using two different types of cleansers. Steps, each with a specific purpose. The method originated from K-beauty, or Korean beauty, skincare culture, where it has long been a foundational part of the evening routine. It started gaining traction in the United States more recently and has since become a popular topic in the skincare world. The first cleanse uses an oil-based product such as a cleansing oil, cleansing balm, or micellar water. Oil-based cleansers work on the principle of like dissolves like, meaning oil effectively breaks down and lifts away other oil-based residue on the skin, including makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum. This first step is particularly useful for removing waterproof makeup and SPF products, which a water-based cleanser alone often can't fully break down. The second cleanse uses a water-based cleanser. This step removes anything the first cleanser left behind, along with water-soluble impurities such as sweat, dirt, and environmental debris. Together, the two steps are designed to give you a more thorough cleanse than either product could achieve on its own. A cleaner surface also means that the serums, moisturizers, and other products you apply afterward can absorb more effectively. But who actually benefits from double cleansing? It tends to be most useful for people who wear makeup regularly, especially waterproof formulas, those who wear sunscreen daily, and people with oily or acne-prone skin who tend to have more buildup throughout the day. For these individuals, double cleansing in the evening can be a helpful way to make sure the skin is thoroughly clean before the rest of the routine. However, most people don't actually need to double cleanse. For the majority of people, one thorough cleanse with a gentle, appropriate cleanser is completely sufficient. If you go makeup-free, have dry or normal skin, or don't wear heavy sunscreen, double cleansing every day is likely unnecessary. And for some people, double cleansing can actually do more harm than good. If you have rosacea, eczema, sensitive skin, or dry skin, washing your face twice can be too stripping and may disrupt your skin barrier. This can lead to dryness, irritation, redness, and even breakouts. So if you fall into any of these categories, it is recommended to stick with a gentle single cleanse and consult with your dermatologist before adding any additional steps. If you do want to remove makeup thoroughly and aren't sure double cleansing is right for you, there are simpler alternatives worth considering. You can use a micellar water to gently remove makeup first, followed by your regular water-based cleanser. This can achieve a similar outcome with less risk of overcleansing, especially for those with more sensitive or reactive skin. Regardless of whether you single or double cleanse, always follow up with a moisturizer right after. Cleansing, especially when done twice, can temporarily disrupt hydration, so replenishing that moisture barrier immediately afterward is an important step. The bottom line is that double cleansing can be a beneficial technique for the right person, but is not a universal necessity. As with most things in skincare, the best routine is the one that works for your specific skin type and concerns.
